No problem at all.
In the prior post link I attached as above Ramona suggested that the deck would be glass over ply - I don't know what it is. These cruising cabin yachts were built in Melbourne as distinct from the NSW built bubble cabin yachts. The location advice is nothing to do with what the deck scantlings are or overall build quality just to note the difference in the 2 cabin type builders. Probably the current owner would know or it could maybe become apparent at inspections of hatch cutouts etc. if the deck is solid it should be ok whatever it is - check for gelcoat crazing.
There are numerous checklists on line - eg this one which is too wordy but useful.
www.practical-sailor.com/sailboat-reviews/used_sailboats/diy-survey-checklist-for-used-boat-buyingFor a quick checklist when you are on board this might be a guide; hopefully is of use. Obviously if some of these issues show up it is not a show stopper unless bad - a 1980 yacht. But you don't want to purchase something with bad structural issues or considerable $ rectification issues. As above an on the slips survey is recommended by a relevant certified surveyor and probably needed for insurance.
Rego cert and HIN number available for proof of ownership? I am not sure if Vic red tape is same as NSW red tape
Walk around deck, cabin top and cockpit - no spongy areas or weaknesses, not too may gelcoat crazes, no rust stains at fittings which would indicate rusted fasteners. Windows and hatches leaking?
Hull topsides - no damage or gelcoat crazes which is evidence of damage and collisions? Waterline area bubbles evidence of osmosis
Pulpit, stanchions and pushpit, lifelines ok?Mast and standing rigging - see checklist below I got from somewhere which is sound. How old is standing rigging and is it rust free? Is forestay at deck level straight or bent due to a crash with a wharf? Forestay fitting no weld cracks, straight? No bolt corrosion marks? Look up the mainsail track of the mast from the tack close to the mast aft side - is it straight? CorrosionX scrubbed onto standing rigging and turnbuckles with scotchbrite also sprayed into turnbuckles works very well as a quarterly service action but won't extend the service life which is 10years as per most insurance companies. Any rust stains around chainplate bolts? I can't see if the chainplates are flat bar or u-bolts - see attached 2 photos of rust stains about one of my u bolts for stbd fwd lower - will be renewed very soon. There are deck gelcoat cracks obvious there due to the tensile stresses in the upper surface of the deck - will have to check how deep they are - if just in gelcoat it is possibly ok if it is into the deck laminate then will have to grind flush the deck, epoxy glue fill the gouged out cracks and add suitable glass laminate over the top. The underside deck head has no cracks as under compression. U bolts are not ideal for chain plates, especially without suitable structure under the deck to hull corner as evidenced here.
Diesel and gbx, coupling, shaft and flange, A or P bracket - probably will need new exhaust elbow and water pump, oil filter and air filter, maybe belts, fuel tank emptied and cleaned, descaling of water passages with Rydlyme - check it starts, pumps out water, goes smoothly and easily into fwd and reverse ok as well as holds neutral. Check has separate fuel/water separator not just usual fuel filter - easy to fit a Cav Delphi or Ryco. No engine or gbx oil leaks?
Electrics and comms - nav lights, interior, diesel starter, 2 batteries? radio, depth sounder all working? Anchor light or mhead light? easy to replace.
Interior - expect the normal tidy up and re-varnish but if bulkheads are spongy or deck head is sagging structurally then be wary. All skin fittings and sea cocks ok? Hopefully bronze, they open and close ok. Double utilux clamped hoses. Teak plugs tied or elec taped to them nearby.
Rudder stock slop? Tiller ok and not rotted? Tiller head aft end fitting bolted to rudder stock top ok? No cracks?
Running rigging ok? New ropes not a showstopper. Are all halyards there - main, jib, kite, topping lift for kite pole.
Sails - condition looks average in the photos as expected so fine no big deal - used sail replacements come up regularly, Tony Bull down there will give a good price for new ones.
Keel bolts - as per prior post the keel is a moulded grp stub then the ballast bolted into it - raise floorboards and check top of keel bolt nuts and washers, no damage or rust.
Anchor and chain/warp - ok or rusted out?
Bow roller
Kite pole on board
Life jackets
Does it have cat7 safety - easy to implement
Toerail damage from crashes? Deck to hull joint ok?
Sand in lockers as evidence of being beached? Again not a show stopper per se as long as all else with hull and keel was ok - I bought a Santana 22 with such evidence I found and the seller acknowledged the event when I pointed it out which occurred after mooring or deck hardware failure.
Probably other issues can be listed...............once on board after you do a good initial overall visual from rowing out to inspect you will get a feel if the boat is solid and been reasonably maintained - as above there will inherently be numerous issues you will find but they may not be major depending on what they are............if you want to send me photos of any inspections feel free but only so much can be gleaned from photos..........rust around fasteners, bad gelcoat crazing or cracked through grp laminates or ply bulkhead to hull and deckhead joints are real concerns, as are smashed toerails, bent masts, rusted top of keel bolts and nuts, hull pans under diesels full of oil, diesel exhausts not suitable, holes in water pumps.............
