1-2 foot sloppy, onshore left point break so shallow and small I literally had to surf around rocks jutting out of the water. Seals bouncing around too. Me and a mate for half the surf. Just me for the other half as he sat on the rocks at the start waiting to see if it was breaking and, if it was, see if it was surfable.
Weird surf. Snaffled three bombs straight up on the 8' gun. One of them nice enough to get two comments on the way out and in the car park at the end. Then sat out the back and waited for another. And waited. When one eventually came I paddled too wide and missed it. Waited and waited. Twenty minutes between sets. Another one came and I pulled back as I paddled out for it and the quick spin, late take off intimidated me. Waited. Paddled wide when the set came and ballsed it up again. Went inside and tried to up the wave count. Got one. Saw a set coming and got out to it and got another really good wave.
So five wicked waves in an hour and a half isn't bad, but it just feels like I wasted the middle 70 minutes. Oh well. The sun was out and I did get that early bomb. Glass hf full, glass half full....
chrispy said.. Some chunky wedges today. The local was good until I got in....thank fark you get them special phone calls....had fun second time around
thedrip said.. Weird surf. Snaffled three bombs straight up on the 8' gun. One of them nice enough to get two comments on the way out and in the car park at the end. Then sat out the back and waited for another. And waited. When one eventually came I paddled too wide and missed it. Waited and waited. Twenty minutes between sets. Another one came and I pulled back as I paddled out for it and the quick spin, late take off intimidated me. Waited. Paddled wide when the set came and ballsed it up again. Went inside and tried to up the wave count. Got one. Saw a set coming and got out to it and got another really good wave.
So five wicked waves in an hour and a half isn't bad, but it just feels like I wasted the middle 70 minutes. Oh well. The sun was out and I did get that early bomb. Glass hf full, glass half full....
Yeah I think the swell period was longer than predicted. Wave size was about the same as yesterday, but not as consistent. Seemed to pulse with a few sets & then nothing for 10 or 15 minutes where I was...that's why I ended up grabbing the log so I could catch smaller waves in between
thedrip said.. Weird surf. Snaffled three bombs straight up on the 8' gun. One of them nice enough to get two comments on the way out and in the car park at the end. Then sat out the back and waited for another. And waited. When one eventually came I paddled too wide and missed it. Waited and waited. Twenty minutes between sets. Another one came and I pulled back as I paddled out for it and the quick spin, late take off intimidated me. Waited. Paddled wide when the set came and ballsed it up again. Went inside and tried to up the wave count. Got one. Saw a set coming and got out to it and got another really good wave.
So five wicked waves in an hour and a half isn't bad, but it just feels like I wasted the middle 70 minutes. Oh well. The sun was out and I did get that early bomb. Glass hf full, glass half full....
Yeah I think the swell period was longer than predicted. Wave size was about the same as yesterday, but not as consistent. Seemed to pulse with a few sets & then nothing for 10 or 15 minutes where I was...that's why I ended up grabbing the log so I could catch smaller waves in between
I had the longboard on the roof and was constantly thinking I should grab that for the things that were breaking on the inside. But I couldn't help myself. Just wanted bombs. I think you are probably right on the swell period as even though it wasn't that big it had some grunt in it.
Nothing doing down here. Horrible east to south east winds and driving rain. I was hoping I'd get a few waves this week after a weekend out in the bush but it might be OK later in the week. Some incredible waves there Ted.
smh said... Nothing doing down here. Horrible east to south east winds and driving rain. I was hoping I'd get a few waves this week after a weekend out in the bush but it might be OK later in the week. Some incredible waves there Ted.
well I will make you feel better....I surfed total crap....small,**** bank and the wind was not friendly ....we had a laugh and got wet...so I guess not a total loss
I had the longboard on the roof and was constantly thinking I should grab that for the things that were breaking on the inside. But I couldn't help myself. Just wanted bombs. I think you are probably right on the swell period as even though it wasn't that big it had some grunt in it.
Good thing about my local is you can paddle for sets & small ones from the same spot.
......Some fun little waves this arvo on the 666. Beautiful day, no one out & I got to wash the dust off my springy
smh said... Nothing doing down here. Horrible east to south east winds and driving rain. I was hoping I'd get a few waves this week after a weekend out in the bush but it might be OK later in the week. Some incredible waves there Ted.
well I will make you feel better....I surfed total crap....small,**** bank and the wind was not friendly ....we had a laugh and got wet...so I guess not a total loss
smh said... Nothing doing down here. Horrible east to south east winds and driving rain. I was hoping I'd get a few waves this week after a weekend out in the bush but it might be OK later in the week. Some incredible waves there Ted.
well I will make you feel better....I surfed total crap....small,**** bank and the wind was not friendly ....we had a laugh and got wet...so I guess not a total loss
any surf is better than nothing
smh said..
chrispy said..
smh said... Nothing doing down here. Horrible east to south east winds and driving rain. I was hoping I'd get a few waves this week after a weekend out in the bush but it might be OK later in the week. Some incredible waves there Ted.
well I will make you feel better....I surfed total crap....small,**** bank and the wind was not friendly ....we had a laugh and got wet...so I guess not a total loss
Had Cosy's surprisingly good and uncrowded yesterday morning. Forgotten how much fun that joint is. That stretch is such a saviour when the SE'er comes to play.
Same. Closest I got to water today was the pool on the 56 floor in Jakarta. Great feast though at Skye View. This city is growing on me despite the traffic
fun little glassy peelers this morning.....had lunch with the girl and the surf had picked up and was looking like more fun. Raced home grabbed a board paddled out and the wind laughed at me.....was so horrible
smicko said... Had Cosy's surprisingly good and uncrowded yesterday morning. Forgotten how much fun that joint is. That stretch is such a saviour when the SE'er comes to play.
Same. Closest I got to water today was the pool on the 56 floor in Jakarta. Great feast though at Skye View. This city is growing on me despite the traffic