Was expecting way more swell after winds we had yesterday. Had a few fun ones & did something I've never done before. I was going to go right, but got pitched & somehow fell flat on the top end of my back, bounced, got hit by my board & then drilled by the peak of the wave. Neck snapped back, teeth chattered & it just generally beat the cr@p out of me. C3 or 4 is a bit sore & my left shoulder feels dodgy. Probably gonna need the chiro tomorrow...at least it looks like the winds are gonna be the worst possible direction anyway. Had the soloshot set up, but unfortunately it didn't catch my beating coz I was behind another wave. Would have been the highlight of todays footage too
