Yeh yeh yeh

chrispy said..
yep that was a decimation ted

a island yesterday was not as good as hoped but still some very chunky ones coming through

today no vanders,i did try and no luck,so went to a point closer to home...was crowded but lots of take off points...very fun.

tomorrow i hope to be at home...if our good banks have not been decimated by this swell...fingers crossed and then get my new board shaped

is it going to be a bsq down in byron

Ted the Kiwi said..
Low tide n breaking square Mick - it just collapsed on me as I grabbed the rail to pull in. So must have done it on the previous wave I think. Then I copped the next one right in the detonation zone - good size n it came up in pieces. Got absolutely smashed. Glad there was not one more behind it or I would have been in trouble.

Surfed a nice long left this morning on the low tide. Fun but not too many coming through. Hate the back up board - it's like driving a slow bus after the last one.

Calm before the storm here today. Nervous anticipation at every corner. Few bloodied bodies but not seen a broken stick yet.

Looking forward to getting up to the NE of Indo come the wet season. Glad to see u having some fun.

haha yep definately looks like a wave detonated on it...there were guys heading to the islands off Banda Aceh & Sri Lanka when we transferred in KL...was very jealous, looks like lots of uncrowded options. I considered popping over for a few days since we're so close. We can see lights from Sumatra at night. Winds been light offshore from the East in the morning, probably cool air running down the mountain. Then swinging to a light Westerly mid day, but so light you could still surf most breaks over there I'd say. Have heard Dec-Mar is the go as you say. Wish I could join you

And I want to get a longboard with a 2+1 set up. Maybe a different rocker too. The single fun on my longboard feels a bit "how you doing" on some of the bigger wally ones. I live singles but after falling out of the wall up north earlier this year, and feeling some of the rare weirdness on the longboard, I need to talk to my shaper for a more appropriate board for the conditions I surfed today as they are the bread and butter for a lot of the year.

Ted the Kiwi said...

thedrip said...
Solid swell today. I got a couple - one very memorable double head high right on the longboard - and copped a wash through. Bit dodgy but fun.

The the next few days we will benefit from those same swells.....and the tides will be good as well. At last

Enjoy. It is a very clean grunty swell. Several blokes independently told me one of the local points was as good as it gets yesterday (I missed it unfortunately due to kid commitments), and another bloke said one of the open ocean waves was classic ten foot. This arvo my mate and I were commenting on how this wasn't quite as big as "the swell of the decade" but a far better swell. Lined up without wonk. It's been running for three days so by the time you get it it should really be clean (even for indo) and you might be surprised by the thickness of it.

I am off up north again this Saturday I hope I get a nice little window of late season swell there.

I keep looking at that pic of your board and going



I can't imagine a board being so totally twisted and smashed.

Ps: a guy lost an eye surfing locally recently. That really makes you go . Thoughts go out to him.

Tux said..

thedrip said..
And I want to get a longboard with a 2+1 set up. Maybe a different rocker too. The single fun on my longboard feels a bit "how you doing" on some of the bigger wally ones. I live singles but after falling out of the wall up north earlier this year, and feeling some of the rare weirdness on the longboard, I need to talk to my shaper for a more appropriate board for the conditions I surfed today as they are the bread and butter for a lot of the year.

I reckon longboard gun is what your after...slightly pulled in nose and tail...2+1 vee out the tail

Keep talking sense to me - I am prone to silly rushes of enthusiasm. You are absolutely right.

Like me thinking one of the VadeRs or Nanos would be a good idea with my ankle...dumb.

I haven't had the surgery and got told to hold off as long as possible. Hence pain still occurs daily. When it gets too bad to live with I will go in for the surgery. But it does limit super hard bottom turns when throwing it in the pocket in HP boards. Hence I purchase things that force me to draw different lines. I can't help myself if I am on a four foot wave and one of my HP shorties.

Summer? Lol. I am trying to hold off for years if I can. There's all sorts of ugly things going on in there and the best the surgeon reckons he could do is relieve the pain. I may actually lose some function though, so not rushing at all.

Hey Chrispy while we surfed and parked up the north end of coolie,we disided to take your advice and hit up Sun House only to be greeted with not much interest and told the kitchen was closed for reno's Is this the new smokehouse you tagged me on Instagram

school holidays Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr, So decision time, do i concrete today or assemble a flat pack kitchen.
anyhow enjoy your waves wherever you are

Nice photos ted...

Geez your nano is farking decimated.. Did you land on it or anything?

How big is that right? I am guessing about 8 foot?

Ted the Kiwi said..
Still a bit of size on the sets this morning. Otherwise it's great fun. Not as big as you have had Drip but still pretty chunky at times.

looks pretty solid from where I'm sitting...i'm with Drip on the 8+ guns for something like...I will also be doing a full poo man stance straght for the nearest chennel

Awaiting a report from the qld guys

Just a lazy 50?