thedrip said..

Little did I know I had left my wetsuit in the carpark hanging on a log to dry. I went to a different place this morning, got out of the car to suit up and had my face palm moment. High tailed it 45 mins north back to yesterday's joint. No wettie. Not happy. And to make matters worse it looked like this:

Pics not working for me...

Spew'in mate, can't believe someone picked up your wettie, most would leave it there...I'm pretty paranoid doing that kinda **** these days. I take off my wettie/boots & wack 'em straight into a bucket in the back of the car. But as I leave I still get paranoid & switch my reversing camera on to make sure I didn't drop something. Hpefully it turns out to be a mate who knew it was yours & grabbed it for ya.

More love this morning - bit longer wait than yesterday and smaller but clean as & sun was out - no-one else around either SWEET

SMH, getting out is dead easy even when it is huge. The first pic, where the blokes are is the channel and a shelf. You walk out in ankle to waist deep water depending on the tide and swell and jump off. Where they are coming in they are paddling against the hole little bay drain North.

Getting in in can be trickier if it is big. The only way to come in really is to catch a wave and straighten out near the end, or paddling in through the peak. The channel, with any size,mis hard to paddle against. Those blokes were a bunch of Brazilians and one of them paddles about ten metres from shore for 7 or 8 minutes. His mate was yelling at him from the beach to go back out but he didn't want to. A mate got sucked around and spat back out three times on a 12 foot day a few years back after snapping a leggie and losing his board. Too much water draining too fast.

They have graded it. The rock garden has been limestoned over. Thank f*** for that. Lol. The corrugations are coming back pretty quickly though. The other end hasn't been touched and continue to deteriorate.

genuine said...

thedrip said..
They have graded it. The rock garden has been limestoned over. Thank f*** for that. Lol. The corrugations are coming back pretty quickly though. The other end hasn't been touched and continue to deteriorate.

lol not that great then.

Well it's moved from horribly painful all the way up to just long and annoying.

chrispy said..
i have seen some crap in my life,well today was up there in its perfection of rubbish skated through surfers instead

I'm hoping to get away around 1 for one tomorrow swell small but the wind maybe ok for LM,I've got yet another airport pickup tomorrow two days running wtf

Good one mate - I completed the hat-trick early today & it was a blast all to myself that's just a winner farken cold wind tho brrrrrr

I'm heading to the deep south on Thursday shark country

Beautiful day for logging...made a vid, I'll post it up in 20 mins

Macaha said..
I'm heading to the deep south on Thursday shark country

dont come back with a man bun

wavelength said..

Cobra said..

Macaha said..
I'm heading to the deep south on Thursday shark country

dont come back with a man bun

Wear one of these... even sharks don't like hipsters...

I'm still wearing mine (minus the tail), it's so warm and comfy.

surfed macs break and it was a lot of fun... Not many crew out either

^^^^ Thats great lucky man ,I wish mine did taken from front deck at home-lowlifes

thedrip said..
Wettie got returned to a local surf shop.

Great news!

I had a heap of waves, but got talked out of the longboard by my mate. He has recently purchased an ex-comp HP Nathan Rose longboard so it won't be long before he is converted.

3-4 and a bit lumpy and uncrowded. A few pros showed us all how we should be surfing.