Tux said.. MickPC said.. Post your 8 pic sequence dripster.
SW hammerings are pretty common for anyone, you only have to be in the wrong place at the wrong time to have your world suddenly turn on its or your end
My worst time was walking all the way round to Cobblestones from South Point, paddling straight out into a set & having my board broken on the first wave. Sitting that day out watching my mates have a great time a little further up at Big Rock. Buying a board off Neko Padaratz that arvo & breaking that a couple of days later at supertubes...bloody good board too
Actually not my worst time, I've had a few near death experiences, but at least they gave me stories to tell & not broken boards
Best description I've heard of main break
Margs main break any number of times
Boatramp Bombie - Big day as 14 year old got talked into by a mate of my dads went out and it was every inch of ****ing big and ****ing scary got one all got got another one and went straight over with the lip and got flogged until I thought i was going to die...on the paddle back out Dads mate asked me when I kept trying to catch insiders..stayed for a little while getting shoulders as the swell was on the up...went back in teh arvoi and saw a wave nearly close out the bay and whitewater mow a windsufer on his way out...the whitewater was over his mast
North Point - Couldn't decide to pull in or eject at the bottom of the take off...que lip to head neck near the take off...rocks...beats downs...sets to head
Sh1t mate, that must have been a bloody big day at Bombie for a 14yo fark
I've surfed it heaps but only on days with hardly any wind & very small by bombie standards. Like just over double head in summer on the lower tide mostly going left. Seen Tom Carrol surf it bloody big a couple of times, bloody good to watch.
Many a beating at North Point like you described haha its good for that
My scariest story was Margs main break. Westerly plus plus swell, sitting on the shoulder with Dave Macaulay sitting deeper & further out. Had a few big wide ones with very little wall, just top turn, cutback, top turn, cutback all the way in pretty much going straight. About 3 to 4 times overhead.
I paddled for this wave & missed it. Then turned around to see something like 20 foot of steep whitewater churning towards me that had broken out 1/2 way to China. I jumped off my board & swam as deep as my leggy would allow, felt this sudden increase in water preassue as an extra 20 foot of water passed over me...a pull on my leg & then nothing. The dreaded broken leggy.
I started swimming in & Dave asked if I was ok. I said yeah no worries, just gonna swim in & find my board. But I didn't realize how much Northerly current there was rushing across the reef on the inside. I was swimming in for like 20 minutes getting tired when I realized I was now 1/2 way between the mainbreak & rivermouth & I was not getting any closer to shore.
(As you guys know) Normally when your stuck in a rip you don't swim against it, you swim to the side or let it take you out & then come in another way. I've got mainbreak on one side where I'd washed across from, the box & reefs in front of it with huge waves & whitewater on the other side. I was starting to think I would have to go around behind the box, navigate my way through a minefield of random reefs off Killkarnup & come in at Killkarnup bay about 3km to the North.
I'd just kinda stopped swimming & was waiting to see where this damn current was taking me when a huge set broke between mainbreak & the box. Its does this occasionally when its big & this desperate man saw it as a godsend. The first wave had broken, but it was fat & had a bit of fat wall in front of about 10 foot of whitewater. I swam my ass off & body surfed it for a bit before getting rag dolled towards shore with the first & then following 3 or 4 waves. This got me onto the reef running onto the shore just to the South of rivermouth & I then 1/2 swam 1/2 got hammered across that with a few waves....Stoked!..I didn't die
Almost kissed the ground, walked up & there's my board leaning against the stairs up to the carpark. Never found out who grabbed it for me, some legend
