Well when you start work at 7, it's the only option!

Bit of a stretch and im alright.. Not crisp, but alright

got down to a section of trigg at bout 8am to see some guy getting shacked on a very nice hollow wave as i got to the shoreline. that is enough to get any surfer super stoked, so i bolted into the lineup. wasn't as good as that for much of the session, but there were some nice (short) hollow waves around if you were patient.

the wind went cross-shore at about 9.30, so that cut a fun session short.

Looks like a glassy morning with waves a bit smaller along the stretch. Worth the paddle out unless you're like me and did your knee yesterday. Fingers crossed physio says I haven't done anything major!

How good was this morning! Very few out and a light offshore with a two and a half metre rising swell. There were some bombs coming through at Trigg, head and a half on the sets and really clean.

FFFFFUUUUUU
Why did I go fishing and not surfing!!!

yeah, swell had a bit of kick in it this morning
just went to local northern reef break, rocks pocking out

jbshack said...

Couldn't be bothered with the extra drive so jumped in at Mulla. But shallow and duck diving ripped out my rear fin

Won't be ready till next weekend either..

Big bloody seal was hanging around me and another guy giving us the sh-ts too. When they sit about a meter from you and dive in at you under the water **** those front dog teeth look big

Jeepers mate, it must of been shallow!!!

Bloody seals, they scare the crap outta me

Torch said...

Week turn around seems a bit long, i've repaired 4 plugs in a day and been out the next afternoon, worth ringing around if your getting someone to do it for you...

I thought it was a bit long. I dropped it outside there door and just left it there thinking it would be a few days. OH well i'll try my old short board..Maybe even buy another if its too long

doggie said...

jbshack said...

Torch said...

Week turn around seems a bit long, i've repaired 4 plugs in a day and been out the next afternoon, worth ringing around if your getting someone to do it for you...

I thought it was a bit long. I dropped it outside there door and just left it there thinking it would be a few days. OH well i'll try my old short board..Maybe even buy another if its too long

New board time

I had been running the winged fin in the tail and when i hit bottom it just plain ripped out. I was still palying around and starting to get back into it and really can't work out what i want in a board ATM

jbshack said...

doggie said...

jbshack said...

Torch said...

Week turn around seems a bit long, i've repaired 4 plugs in a day and been out the next afternoon, worth ringing around if your getting someone to do it for you...

I thought it was a bit long. I dropped it outside there door and just left it there thinking it would be a few days. OH well i'll try my old short board..Maybe even buy another if its too long

New board time

I had been running the winged fin in the tail and when i hit bottom it just plain ripped out. I was still palying around and starting to get back into it and really can't work out what i want in a board ATM

Is that the 3D Red Tip? Did you like it?

[quoteIs that the 3D Red Tip? Did you like it?

Nah it was just a indo winged fin. Actually i did like what it did to the board. I had it in at Trigg on Monday morning and i found it gave me more pace( i think ) and the board moved rail to rail better. (May have just been bigger waves than Mulla) But i was enjoying it.

This morning i found of the bottom and trying to snap of the top a little harder and i got the feeling it was never gone a happen but i'm not sure if that's the board, the fin or me

I will grab my old Rusty board. Its 6'6" and a lot thinner so paddling will be not as much fun but it used to fly for me. (when 20 kilos lighter) Big night for me tonight but maybe tomorrow morning. I am keen to progress but finding board choice just too hard. There's way more choice these days and i think i will maybe get one built. My board is at Ocean line and they seem good. Will see how the repair works out.

The Point had weed and the rest wasn't that bad. Actually the bombie was breaking occasionally so was fun. Fair bit of back wash and the old two step waves that piss me of but, a little fun. Mostly the bigger ones just dropped so take and and get swallowed Oh and shallow

Yeah - it can 'double face' there badly when shallow - and can really bugger up your wave count some days... and I've been ground into the sand a couple of times there... even up at the point it can get very shallow...

...bloody weed - I'm sick of it!

You must of still been devo not going for a wave this morning

Well I must be getting old and picky...

Drove from north Mullaloo to Port beach and back stopping at various places along the way... lots of rips, backwash, exposed reef and WEED!

If you were 13yo grom Leighton had a small clean waist high wave... too much of a close-out for me to bother...

Please swell hang in there for tomorrow!!!!

Ive got no chance of getting today