look mac has me out looking like some animal. its just then you surf really crowded waves you have to get amongst it or just might as well go in. last two months have been rabid on all the points. super crowds. there are a lot times ive come back in almost no waves at the alley
so maybe, just maybe I might,just might accidently bring that along when its not so crowded.
however if ya go soft people will climb all over if they smell a weakness.
its a bit sad these days. but I do make a point of giving waves away too and yep I get my good share of drop ins too