Another day in paradise, head height clean long walls with a surprisingly small crowd for a Saturday

It wasn't so good but nice in the water all the same,a little wonky.

Lacey was there,somewhere as he paddled out at a different spot,I bumped into Bigspazz and his dream machine in all its glory 12 foot what a magic looking board.

Right hand double head high peak with the odd big south peak clean up. When the wind dropped and all the guys on longboards hit it (I was on my 8') the sets became harder to snaffle so I paddled to where the Bubble of nothing was really something. Wally lefts with a couple of barrels. Yeeeew!

So.Surfed out. Yesterday had some nice overhead bowls coming through. Not super glassy, but only the nodeckcrew out lol. We had a blast.

Today was a bit smaller,but was perfect head high and the sets were bigger
Just so much fun. Apologies to Brett the 666 mate

Oh the crowds were crazy,yet most of the peeps were more like.driftwood and did not want any waves....WTF besides the kooks paddling for shoulders,or sitting right in front of you or just bailing their boards

smh said...
I wasn't expecting much and got it. Knee to waist high bumps but still got a few so it was better than nothing

Absolutely. Nothing wrong with not expecting much and be happy to be in the water. I grew up in Getaldton which is a windsurfing Mecca for a reason. My bread and butter was 25 knot onshore waist to shoulder high waves. Indeed the onshore would frequently improve the shape by making wedges. 24 years since I last lived there and I can still froth on that.

It's that attitude that keeps people in the water. Too many people lose that inner Stoke and fall away. A friend once told me when I was about 25 how important it was to keep that grom stoke. I still try to now and it's great you are too.

Any surf is better than no surf.

smh said..

thedrip said...

smh said...
I wasn't expecting much and got it. Knee to waist high bumps but still got a few so it was better than nothing

Absolutely. Nothing wrong with not expecting much and be happy to be in the water. I grew up in Getaldton which is a windsurfing Mecca for a reason. My bread and butter was 25 knot onshore waist to shoulder high waves. Indeed the onshore would frequently improve the shape by making wedges. 24 years since I last lived there and I can still froth on that.

It's that attitude that keeps people in the water. Too many people lose that inner Stoke and fall away. A friend once told me when I was about 25 how important it was to keep that grom stoke. I still try to now and it's great you are too.

Any surf is better than no surf.

Yeah that's true. Surfing junk like you did in Geraldton must have been good for your reflexes. It's pretty rare that once I'm there I won't go out . Driving back home without having a surf is a bummer .

Ha!!! Don't be fooled, there are great waves up that way, Drips just been spoilt the last 15 years or so wit one of the few places in Oz that compares to Hawaii


Totally agree on the keeping the stoke though, thats what a versatile quiver with 666'ers or 12'2 Logs for the micro days

Not as good as yesterday. Swell was a bit straighter, still lotsa good uns to be had. Was also good to start riding the treadly over again

heaps better than yesterday.


covers ups on offer.


get that green 9.3 207 mct loves that stuff

Great pic Mac

Thought todays surf was going to be cr@p after checking a couple of places, but then got lucky on the third place. Mainly just fun surfing a different place

Macaha said..

MickPC said..
Great pic Mac

Thought todays surf was going to be cr@p after checking a couple of places, but then got lucky on the third place. Mainly just fun surfing a different place

I stole that picture from CW which was taken today.To be honest we need a big swell to lose some sand it too shallow for longboarding.What is now full tide is like low tide and our lows are low with super steep take offs and its a race type wave,not the new cruise wave we normally have.

and my new board loved it today... a few that went wrong,but the the others are all yeeeooooow keep everything how it is i say

Macaha said...

chrispy said..

Macaha said..

MickPC said..
Great pic Mac

Thought todays surf was going to be cr@p after checking a couple of places, but then got lucky on the third place. Mainly just fun surfing a different place

I stole that picture from CW which was taken today.To be honest we need a big swell to lose some sand it too shallow for longboarding.What is now full tide is like low tide and our lows are low with super steep take offs and its a race type wave,not the new cruise wave we normally have.

and my new board loved it today... a few that went wrong,but the the others are all yeeeooooow keep everything how it is i say

so you rode a SB,its bloody hard fitting a 906 in some of those waves very square take offs,even GT told me yesterday he feared of injury on some sets that rolled in.

I was on the devil shorty mac.....but come on lacey has been out on his longboard getting tubed. It shows how soft I am,but one that I got smashed on, well after the third time it put me in the sand I was not having fun

Really nice day today. Surf cleaned up, nice & clean but still a bit dodgy in swell direction. Just sat deep & caught the middle size ones coz they were running through better than the sets which were mainly shutting down. Took out the log & pulled off my first hard cutty foam rebound while switchfoot, felt really good

MickPC said..
Really nice day today. Surf cleaned up, nice & clean but still a bit dodgy in swell direction. Just sat deep & caught the middle size ones coz they were running through better than the sets which were mainly shutting down. Took out the log & pulled off my first hard cutty foam rebound while switchfoot, felt really good

Show off.

well done.

thedrip said..

MickPC said..
Really nice day today. Surf cleaned up, nice & clean but still a bit dodgy in swell direction. Just sat deep & caught the middle size ones coz they were running through better than the sets which were mainly shutting down. Took out the log & pulled off my first hard cutty foam rebound while switchfoot, felt really good

Show off.

well done.

lol...well there's only so much you can do on a 10 foot log with a 10 inch hatchet fin & being 24 inches wide. I can't nose ride, so switch footing seems like the go

Nice work Mick. Still no surf for me. The beach out in front has been terrible the last few days but still seems to score at least a 3 or 4 every day on the surf report sites. I have been spending my mornings doing the early morning laps of the beach with the chick. Hitting the pavement. Far out its been a bloody long time. Enjoying it so much though I brought myself some new runners yesterday arvo. Already had two quick trips in them down the promenade. They are unreal.