Mick and smh are inspirational for their keenness. 20 years ago a mate told me that each year it gets a little bit harder to keep the grommet Stoke and that's why people drift away from surfing. They surf less, because they are surfing less it becomes harder, because it's harder it becomes less enjoyable so it becomes easier to pass on marginal conditions, or big clean conditions. So I took that on board.
Mark Richard's maxim "These are the good old days because it's a little less crowded than next year and the year after that" also lets me deal with crowds. I don't look back crowd wise (that's depressing) but look forward and be happy with what I have.
This was my first wave last year after coming across the top end. It was three months between surfs. I was so pumped and excited to be in the water even if I could barely catch them and the guy on the eleven foot log made me want to smash him out of sheer jealousy. Two weeks later I had an East coast appropriate board.
A bad surf is generally better than no surf I find. Having spent long periods out with injury (probably a year of the last five) I appreciate being able to surf.
And without wanting to get all mystical, surfing is my happy place that renews me. In my life, it's my space.
Go find a crappier wave without a crowd, Ted. I had a ball in onshore Alley at Narrabeen last year (like really onshore) and found a little peak in southern Mona vale. They were all crap but my crap.



Pep talk finished.