chrispy said..
4ft with a lot of push. some nice bombs coming through. scored a few smokers. then i paddled for what could be easily wave of the day......and then it happened, a bloke i surf with,well his mate has panicked while i was taking off. so instead of moving inside me and duckdiving the wave. he sat there like a dear in the headlights,ive had to turn the board while pooping up not kill him....in that time he has bailed his board and his fin has almost gone through my whole board,from deck to bottom.


then while on the sand bank with the next set about to hit us he is wanting to work out how to untangle the boards,i just undid my leggie and dived to the side before the next one ****ed us. got my board paddled in endinfg what would have been the third day of great waves.


calmed down all i could do was thank my lucky stars that it was not in my head.

i also know not one of us owns the ocean,but surely if your not confident out there,maybe one should re think what they are doing. rant over. favorite board now dinged so the love affair will have to wait

laceys lane said..
bad luck chrispy or good luck. there two ways of looking at it

chrispy said..
i feel like a cry baby now