Left home at 4:15am spent 6 plus hours in the water, did over 450kms and just got in the door. Great day out. Even ran into a seabreezer in the water. Wicked day of waves. If I had to complain it was just that I could not do this yesterday when it was a bit bigger. Hope you all got your fill. I am knackered and ready for bed

Saw a young goofy foot girl get a very very long ride on her backhand today - she looked in shock as she did 5 nice top turns down the line. When she finally falls off she is just screaming with delight - and as it happens her dad was on the wave behind and when he flicked off he was just as stoked for her. She smiled all the way back out whilst screeching at "how sick that wave was." She got a couple of other good ones as well. I saw them in the carpark later on and she was the most stoked surfer I had come across in a very long time. It was great to see. Absolutely frothing.