My back and hip have finally come good enough for me to venture out. Avalon wasn't crowded for a change, with waist to chest high waves coming through. So a good opportunity to get to know the new mal, (well new as in not surfed much, it's over 6 months since I built it). Last time I had a knee paddler was in 1966! So this was a trip down memory lane. I'm very happy with the way the board went, easy to turn and nose ride, and all that rocker surprisingly doesn't make it slow. And I surprised a couple of people by how easy it was to catch waves. I just need more decent sessions on it, to get thoroughly comfortable with it. Then I can concentrate on the wave, instead of the board.
Only surfing the web today. Saving, time, petrol and sanity. Glad I'm past the days of optimistically thinking I might just jag a couple of fun ones out here:
Got a few surfs in over the past few days but it's been pretty small . The best of it was a bank up the middle of the beach in town and I had it to myself . Knee high lefts but really consistent and fun .
It's been big here this week it's settling down hopefully tomorrow more longboard friendly but first up is a 6 am paddle out for my longtime mate accountant it's been a week I'm still rattled at his lose and how it happened such a amazing human and outstanding surfer I figure more to it than reported hopefully I'll come away with more info I can't believe it was a simple drowning he was too good for that, news said leg rope caught on rocks he would have pulled the strap Rip AK
Just surfed a lumpy high tide beach break after night shift . More swell here today . Got smashed in the shore break trying to get out . Still got a few . No crowd
Macaha said.. It's been big here this week it's settling down hopefully tomorrow more longboard friendly but first up is a 6 am paddle out for my longtime mate accountant it's been a week I'm still rattled at his lose and how it happened such a amazing human and outstanding surfer I figure more to it than reported hopefully I'll come away with more info I can't believe it was a simple drowning he was too good for that, news said leg rope caught on rocks he would have pulled the strap Rip AK
I was talking to a guy the other day who got his leggy caught over reef and with the water surging he couldn't get down to release the strap .
Macaha said.. It's been big here this week it's settling down hopefully tomorrow more longboard friendly but first up is a 6 am paddle out for my longtime mate accountant it's been a week I'm still rattled at his lose and how it happened such a amazing human and outstanding surfer I figure more to it than reported hopefully I'll come away with more info I can't believe it was a simple drowning he was too good for that, news said leg rope caught on rocks he would have pulled the strap Rip AK
I was talking to a guy the other day who got his leggy caught over reef and with the water surging he couldn't get down to release the strap .
Yep. Happened to me at Desert Point Lombok. Lucky leggie eventually broke presumably on reef edge.
There's a spot at my local where its happened twice. Boards tombstoning & the currents sucking so hard through a reef section it took over a minute before I could get to the release with the aid of a set wave pushing the other way & lessoning the pressure enough. It was sucking me under water.
Smaller today but better winds . Nice peaks . Sunny weather . Still in boardies and rash vest . Best time of the year . The kids go back to school next week which is a massive bonus .
Clean and overhead on the sets . Not bad shape but a few out . Beautiful Autumn weather and water still warm enough for boardies and rash vest . I'll be back out there tomorrow
Avalon again, this time a little bigger, probably got a couple around chest high. I'm starting to get used to moving my feet again. Found all that rear rocker taking over, in one nice cutback. Had a couple of latish tack offs that caused me a problem getting to my feet, but that may improve with practise.
BUT, I now have sore knees, I'm going to have to use some sort of padding somewhere until I get some calluses happening. Skate board knee pads, soft deck grip??? Any ideas
Saving, time, petrol and sanity. 
Glad I'm past the days of optimistically thinking I might just jag a couple of fun ones out here:
Still got a few . No crowd 
