There are days it should be illegal to go to work, today was such a day. I tortured myself by leaving home a little early to check the local on the way to work & snapped a few pics on my sh1ty motorola phone camera. Pic belows about a 1/8th crop. There were 3 guys out getting double head plus waves screaming down the line with a barrel section to themselves. Work dragged on till lunch & I raced home to find a couple of guys out & clean conditions. Consistent double head waves...wanted to surf my 6'4 but realized I'd blown the fcs plugs on the back fin last week. So took out a wide 6 & had the longest waves I've ever had on a shortboard out there. Stoked to score it before it turns to sh1t tomorrow

MickPC said..
There are days it should be illegal to go to work, today was such a day. I tortured myself by leaving home a little early to check the local on the way to work & snapped a few pics on my sh1ty motorola phone camera. Pic belows about a 1/8th crop. There were 3 guys out getting double head plus waves screaming down the line with a barrel section to themselves. Work dragged on till lunch & I raced home to find a couple of guys out & clean conditions. Consistent double head waves...wanted to surf my 6'4 but realized I'd blown the fcs plugs on the back fin last week. So took out a wide 6 & had the longest waves I've ever had on a shortboard out there. Stoked to score it before it turns to sh1t tomorrow

Lack of crowd due to recent sighting of men in grey suits Mick?? Looks awesome though surfed it same size last year same time of yr actually has some grunt to it at size reminded me of centre peaks in the NW and that's no joke

It was huge here. A six chargers at Yals. Watched three of them get waves and get washed in. Another three were on the reef for the 15 minutes I watched, waiting for a lull to get off. They didn't. Would get washed back, get back to the waiting jump off, get washed back.

I went to a bay and point that had waves, but with the swell size and tide the rip was the worse I have ever seen it. Caught one six footer to the beach after 15 minutes of paddling, contemplated the walk around, but the thought of another continuous paddle to maintain position put me off. And I was on a 9'6". Spoke with a bloke on the beach who had surfed for two hours for five waves. That convinced me. Only eight guys out, but hideous work.

another mate surfed a beachies at about five foot and said it was a washing machine. Even the Bay was probably hard work. I imagine North Point was firing in a "omigod im going to die"/only for pros and madmen sort of way.

oh well tomorrow....

That peak up the top there and the couple further around get some serious grunt don't they Mick! Surfed it a couple of times when it was solid and had a ball - got caught out fading turns on a couple that grew on me as they came around the corner and pinched me out - the reef up the top there is a little nasty!

Mostly good experiences crew wise, Im not a local but played by the rules and got a few nice ones last time I was out there. Glad you had such a ripper session!

Got a really coooool surf this morning. Water was warm, took a while to get the motivation to suit up as it was only about 2ft and after the recent run of bigger surf, it looked like it lacked "something"
As it turned out, I was wrong, left the SB in car and paddled the 9.3 and had a really fun hour .... even got a small crouching cover (and made he exit too ) .... had it all this morning, super clear water, waves (although looking weak were surprising as they were running on the bank quite quick), whales, shark alarm (apparently on the NSW detector) and small crowd.

Looks nice Capitan, might head your way today

nice conditions and some small clean peelers at BB ..still an off shore wind ..and a premo day ..

Bigger than expected head & 1/2 at the new reefie we've been enjoying. Talked to a young bloke who says he surfed it all the time up until about 8 or 9 years ago which made a lot of sense. Our first house when we first moved here 8 years ago was just down the road & I looked around these areas all the time & never saw anything. So the sand has returned & its been firing. Heaps of places around like this, just need a bit extra sand & they'd be great. But yeah, nice to have somewhere different to surf, hope it lasts

Great time of the year to be a longboarder.

laceys lane said..
great time of the year to have 12.6 666.

late afternoon pigfest at the alley then paddle home. crew on longboards were struggling. its that small

I'd rather struggle too than have a paddle in my hands

Nowhere.but I'm back in the water this weekend after having surgery on my hand 4 weeks ago surf not looking great but I'm out there

A few diamonds in the rough to be had at the local beachie today

Macaha said..
Great surf this morning at LM stuff all out due to Coolie Rocks and it's still awesome right now

Good stuff Mac,some pics of Coolie Rocks On would be good

Macaha said..

Al G said..

Macaha said..
Great surf this morning at LM stuff all out due to Coolie Rocks and it's still awesome right now

Good stuff Mac,some pics of Coolie Rocks On would be good

I'll try tomorrow mate its a mad house at coolie lot of people having fun and good on them

No worries mate,only if you can,no doubt there will be lots of pics around

I could imagine it's a mad house,I think there's usually upwards of 800 cars get up there for that event!..

Better than Bali