4 foot at my preferred go to wave. Only 8 guys. Swapped boards with a bloke because he said I was making it look easy on the 8 footer and it must have been the board, not him. Knowing my fitness and skill level, I agreed and handed it over. Turned out it was him. kept sitting wide and when I pointed out where he was sitting was where the big ones broke, he was adamant he just wanted to hang there. Oh well. Got a few on his Firewire Hellfire (which felt too loose and flappy for me) then swapped back.

Best waves I have had for six weeks.

thedrip said..
4 foot at my preferred go to wave. Only 8 guys. Swapped boards with a bloke because he said I was making it look easy on the 8 footer and it must have been the board, not him. Knowing my fitness and skill level, I agreed and handed it over. Turned out it was him. kept sitting wide and when I pointed out where he was sitting was where the big ones broke, he was adamant he just wanted to hang there. Oh well. Got a few on his Firewire Hellfire (which felt too loose and flappy for me) then swapped back.

Best waves I have had for six weeks.

Hellfire is a loose board, some people say its a bit skatey but I love those deep double concaves when your turning off the bottom. So your back home? I might head down next week for a few days...probably surf windies, Yalls & he who parts the waters
.........

Had fun the last few days here, couple of days on the SB & then back on the log today. Surfed pretty much on my own the last couple of days & then with 4 other guys today sitting way too deep hassling each other. Fairly strong 15 knt winds have kept people away, I'm stoked they must have forgotten its summer & anything over waist high should be considered as going off ...didn't wanna post here & jinx it or motivate people haha

Had a bit of a tragedy on boxing day. I bought 4 sets of surf racks. 4th one was a separate order & got 6mm instead of 10mm ramsets for the hook up. Then due to the postition I set it up, along side my car. My most difficult boards to swing around the garage ended up on that rack. My 666 & log. One side didn't hold after 9 months use & dropped the boards on their tails. 2 decent size epoxy ding repairs, but better the tails than the nose I spose, all fixed now. Got a couple of 230mm x 10mm bolts right through the brick wall on the top holes to hold the farkers up now. Should do the trick haha

Hope yuz have a great New Years boys

Happy New Year!

Just saw a surf cam of snapper and it looks like its going off its tits! Enjoy if you get it!

Me ill just keep plugging away at work!

Happy New Year! May you all be blessed with epic sessions throughout 2016.

Thought I'd go a bit early and it was the right move. Nice waist to shoulder high peaks and not crowded. Plenty of the local boys out there which was good. Some really nice shaped waves and plenty of them. Good way to start the new year. Looking like we will get some decent swell around Sunday. Seems like QLD is already getting it.

Snapped a $500 paddle geez azz ya poor bugger

...........

Took my 666 out for a paddle. Was a little cool this morning so avoided getting wet which was easy coz there weren't any waves. Plenty of cross shore though...wishing I was at Granites with Tractorguy, love that break. I wonder if the porcelin throne dunny with the amazing view is still there

Granites is a great wave.

I'm glad you karma came good, but the paddle was annoying I bet.

I surfed a dropping 3-4 reefie. Lefts and rights. I hadn't been on the longboard in any size for a while so was falling off the bigger ones when I cutback into the foam, or when leaning back and trying to turn it like a shortboard in the pocket. Good fun. Pretty uncrowded too (8-14 peeps).

Ted the Kiwi said..
Surfed a crappy central coast Beachie. 2 ft close outs with lots of back wash. Caught 3 average waves and called it a day. Nice swim I will think of it on reflection Tom morning will be doing a dawn raid on my old local treasure. Think it will be pretty good - but not getting too excited.

Sound like the Trigg Scarbough stretch at the moment lol

jbshack said..

DARTH said..

Ted the Kiwi said..
Surfed a crappy central coast Beachie. 2 ft close outs with lots of back wash. Caught 3 average waves and called it a day. Nice swim I will think of it on reflection Tom morning will be doing a dawn raid on my old local treasure. Think it will be pretty good - but not getting too excited.

Sound like the Trigg Scarbough stretch at the moment lol

Really Darth, 2 foot, you wish it was that big

Was more thinking about the close out and back wash

Heavy. Thoughts go out to the family. If it's big and chunky make sure you are in reasonable condition before paddling out.

Double overhead mate, one longboarder out its just too wild to surf a longboard here when it's like this, I was looking for LL but no show. He must have been at d-bah on his shortboard because its conditions like this he rides them.

Great to see you guys are getting some swell and good waves Macaha, devastating the poor bloke has lost his life and another injured. Hope everyone stays safe.

Kirra doing its thing

good stuff mac the swell is to south of us ,,fraser stops it.

noticed alex head had a nice wave rolling in.

nothing here today,back to waiting for another low.

enjoy it boys.

Another angle