I took the 10ft log Ted shape out at a long long left on the low tide. Normally it would be sketchy but swell direction was hitting perfectly. Had the best long board session ever. Got some nice hang five ride time. No turns just straight up the middle. Even got a few bigger ones and was so surprised how it handled it. Stoked beyond belief. I knew that wave would be epic for the 10 footer in the right conditions and it is !! Was a huge effort to get it over here but after today it was well worth it. Similar swell conditions Tom so more of the same perhaps. Got to hand it to Mac. He generously gave me a big monster fin for that board and it works a treat Thanks legend.
seems volleyball is making a big comeback over here. I have counted 5 new courts since I was last here.
now it's time to eat.
