A double barrel wave at rainbow.
Best wave ive had in years.
First one was so steep almost a skiing like edge body shape to stay there.
Second one was deeper.
Mac speed
I was looking at people watching me in that timeless sensation you get
Been a very long time since ive been in like that.
It was crowded and lots of people not making the drops including me.
Like landing in very shallow water.
But its all worth when you get that special

Mac said he got a really good first one.
However it was too shallow for lb's.
Well I wouldnt like to be trying it