Gorgo said..
I agree that the waiting and bobbing and paddling and crowding of surfing is crap. But if you had succeeded in properly surfing some waves then you would know that the feeling is insane. It's a bit like foiling. "This shouldn't be possible, but it is! I should not be in this position, but I am! Wow!"
Yes I did and yes it is worthy. The connection between you, board and water. To feel the power of the wave. That moment when everything melts away and nothing else in the world matters. You are at one with the board the ocean, A zen like state. I have felt it and its awesome. Its so much fun it should be illegal!
Its call flow.
But its not exclusive to surfing. You can reach that heighted state of flow in most if not all adrenaline type sports. It's why i'm so stoked a lot of the time.
I can get to that mental state in all of my adrenaline sports.
So my point is. Its not exclusive to surfing. You don't have the secret to nirvana that no one else can unlock without surfing. Other people can and will reach that state of mind doing other stuff. Like boosting a TT in the waves.
So...... with that in mind we all need to respect each other fun. It may not be your personal nirvana but it is there's. You don't have a right to all the waves because your a surfer and neither does the TT Boosting guy. We need to recognize and respect everyone is entitled to their personal fun and respect that rather than thinking "my fun is more special and deserving that that persons".