quote:
Originally posted by poor relative
It amazes me that you guys could even carry those boards to the beach, let alone paddle out and surf them. Especially at places like main break.
Yes they were heavy pre 67 they were made to kneel on, (didn't have the weight + 10-20 litres formula back then, we just made then big)
And they had 2 layers of 10oz glass top and bottom. We had no leg ropes back then so you had to watch the loose ones in the soup, they could do some damage if they hit you!
You can still see my knee bump in the photo of me on the nose, and that board and the one before were too thin to paddle kneeling effectively. Some surfers even avoided nasho call up due to the size of their knee bumps!
But we were in awe of the first surfers, mate and I were asked to carry Duke Kahanamoku's board to the beach at the 66 Coolangatta Australian titles. It was solid timber 8' 6" long and about 2' wide, weighed a ton!!!! didn't even have a fin! yet the Duke could paddle it out with a young lady passenger and lift her to his shoulders once on a wave.
http://www.hawaiianswimboat.com/duke3.htmlquote:
We must arrange a bbq down your way De'crep with Hardie n Elmo sometime would be great to sit around with a few beers and hear your tales of the past with the kids running around.
Now you're talking PR great idea!!!