Sorry, I would've chipped in earlier, but I've been away.

That's some nice shaping. When I did mine, I took the opportunity to round the foam up from underneath as well as down from the top. Felt this might be an advantage for helping the nose resurface if it ever buries.

The guys were right when they said you have to rough up the asa (plastic) to help it adhere to the epoxy and fibreglass.

Take the time to sand and shape it reallly well, before you paint it. You'll be wrapped with the result.

Good luck, they're a great board to ride. Keep the photo's coming, it's looking good already!

Here's mine again.






Make sure you use a good cover of car duco spray to finish off !

One thing I'd do differently for mine is to tuck the nose a bit more (ie put more of a sharp edge at the tip). Spray would wrap around the nose and come back to hit me in the face

Yours looks about right though.

Are you going to put some D-cell on top of that, to make a proper sandwich?

I didn't and I wouldn't. I don't think Dcell is necessary for the area you are working on. Just make sure you have used enough layers of glass to make it strong.
-Worst scenario, if you bashed the nose with a direct hit again it'd be even easier to fix 2nd time around!

You say you like working with epoxy resin more than polyester.... wonder if you'll still think that after sanding??

Something to think about is how you will spray the new nose for the best finish. The bottom is easy. -just spray and fade the white paint into the boards white over a distance of about 30cm and then lightly sand with fine grade wet and dry. (you won't see a thing)

The deck is different though.
- It amazes me how many ding repairers spray over the sugar coating which ends up looking very ordinary. (you'll be disappointed if you do this)

I reckon there are 2 ways of doing it

a) sand the sugar coating off the front 30cm of the deck. You don't need it anyway (unless you plan on hanging 10 with the SUP boys) and it gives you room to fade the paint similar to on the bottom, so after a light sand, there is no visible line.

or
b) sand the sugar coating off the nose, following the natural line of the rails around. Then mask off so you can't spray the sugar coating and spray away. this will give you a bit of a line (which you can sand down a bit) but it'll still look good cos it follows the line of the rails anyway.

in the pics below, the white and greeny/yellow boards are done using method a)
-they now have no grip on the front 30cm, but the colour blend is undetectable.

for the peppermint flow I used method b) -you can see a slight line where I masked around the sugar coating and although the colour match is good it's not 100 %. (but it retains its grip right up to the top)

I like a) better!




Start sanding and don't paint till it's smooth as silk!

Thanks for the tips Bondi. I had been working with the thought that enough layers of glass would be strong enough, and I'm too far in now for D-cell. As for the paint, I had already sanded the sugar coat off as it needed re-doing anyway. The job has turned into a Flow Resto' rather than just a nose repair, and she's looking great. No marks, looks like a new board Cant wait to get it in the water.

Noice, noice

Great to see another Flow resurrected

You do have an eye for detail Arnold! Crew coming up for a week, so catching up is firmly on the agenda for the next 7-10 days. Might pop into town with the fellas for a Bay session.

No problem if there isn't wind James, we can fill the time in painting the house

I have a Mistral Flow 266 in need of a bit of nose work. I'm not using it anymore so If someone wants a freebie to try a repair for themselves and have a bit of a summer project they can have it. I'm in Karrinyup in Perth, if anyone is interested send me a pm.