Seriously, what is wrong with this world ?

?sorry mate, got to go for a run tomorrow?

?so cold...gonna sleep in, stay metro I think?

They all fade and drift away over time
Question is will you?

Seacht said..

They really do.
Recently bumped into a surf mate who was a fervent wave hound 15 years ago
Who does not bother now at all.
For some I guess they just lose interest.

Or for many i guess time constraints and life just gets in the way

Happily my kid brought me back to surfing

Missus wants to go out for brunch
I want a sleep in
Im going out the night before
I drank too much last night
I slept in
Its too cold
My board is damaged
It might be ****

Ive heard them all, i guess some lack the passion. I hope i never loose it!!

If you don't still surf than you probably never did

I'm not quitting, but definitely have noticed I am getting more picky...

I've surfed for 33 years since I was 14yo. Up until I was about 30yo I would go 3-4 times a week as I was working shift work, so plenty of midweek sessions. Then family came along, and a promotion to 8am-6pm and I found myself doing the weekend hassle. Then I was out of the water for 10 months after breaking my back at 33yo - and lost a lot of fitness and nerve, and had to make the move to mid-length. I enjoyed the extra wave count and never went back to a shorty.

Anyhow, along the way all my mates stopped surfing... kids sports, reno's, work, study, family time etc.

I still check the surf forecast everyday. And my initial weekend and holiday plans always revolve around surfing... That said, when it's onshore, rippy, crowded, weedy or straight (or there's SUP's in the line up) I find I just don't have the enthusiasm any more.

Having said all of that, one fast head-high right hander that walls up and I am frothing like the 14yo grommet I once was.

GPA said..

I'm not quitting, but definitely have noticed I am getting more picky...

I've surfed for 33 years since I was 14yo. Up until I was about 30yo I would go 3-4 times a week as I was working shift work, so plenty of midweek sessions. Then family came along, and a promotion to 8am-6pm and I found myself doing the weekend hassle. Then I was out of the water for 10 months after breaking my back at 33yo - and lost a lot of fitness and nerve, and had to make the move to mid-length. I enjoyed the extra wave count and never went back to a shorty.

Anyhow, along the way all my mates stopped surfing... kids sports, reno's, work, study, family time etc.

I still check the surf forecast everyday. And my initial weekend and holiday plans always revolve around surfing... That said, when it's onshore, rippy, crowded, weedy or straight (or there's SUP's in the line up) I find I just don't have the enthusiasm any more.

Having said all of that, one fast head-high right hander that walls up and I am frothing like the 14yo grommet I once was.

Sounds like a brother ('cept my real bro quit yeeeeeeeeears ago (still says he wants to get back out there though)).

I started when I was 9 and still can't get enough of it....after surfing for 6 hours I still stuggle to stay out of the water if there are still waves to be had...my wife just laughs when she sees me starting to froth out....

Lucky surfing isn't a team sport..

I reckon that is one of the best things about it. Towel, board, wettie and you're ready to go.

Although it is good surfing with a few mates at the end of the day you don't really need them.

Sharks on the brain?

LateStarter said..

samokta said..

Sharks on the brain?

You can't say that its not a factor. Two of my mates used to surf all the time, they were both pretty hard frothers. After that kid got taken at Wedge, neither of them have even looked twice at the ocean.

I must admit I really give alot of thought before I decide where to surf these days. I dont blame them for not wanting to get in the water.

I surfed up there all the time thinking we were in a shark free area, oh how I was wrong.

I have surfed all the places down south where attacks have happened after attacks but the wedge attack really brought it home to me.

I have always known sharks are out there and its always been in the back of my mind but its closer to the front of my mind now.

As surfers we are always in the perfect spot for an attack, just out side breaking waves in deep enough water. Sitting ducks, but even though we are sitting ducks why dont attacks happen more often??

I couldnt imagine anything worse than not surfing

I can see how injuries would hold people back. The last 9 months have just been a complete pain and the idea that any of them could happen again so easily worries me. But then again i could trip over at the shops or walking the dog so why change what you enjoy..

Bait taken

I'm not scared.
Scaremonger till you're heart's content, dear media.

The offer was made Phil. There is other options....

Souwester said..

I love the whole thing about surfing at the moment, it's a balancer for me. Me and a mate at work go down any chance we get for the dawn patrol. Have scored heaps but when forecast looks crap we still do the drive down and paddle out and even if bugger all waves caught we still maintain that it is worth it.- grab a coffee on way to work, put on work shoes at one of the many red lights and go to work with a bit if a spring in the step. We actually laugh at the crap we surf sometimes so surfing crap is still fun in a way.

It means a lot of different things to different people, not talking crap but each to their own. To this day have not been able to turn some one around who is not that keen. Might get them down for an occasional session but not consistently to the level of stoke and commitment that others have or that I feel .Just seems that the ocean can take it away but also give it back reading some of the above replies.

I do think people look for something different from surfing than others. I agree i enjoy the water, the waves and the company.. Im easily pleased though but still feeling good from the last weekend..