newguy said...I saw that and raced down. Rocked up to howling southerlies and a washbowl

So I paddled out onto the reefs. Big sets coming in. Speaking of big, I seem to be having trouble with duck diving when the swell kicks up. Anybody have any tips? Smaller stuff I manage well and even in the bigger stuff when it surges. It's just the whitewater that I can't seem to get past when the wave breaks. I'll dive and then get thrown around before I surface

heh. i was spewing that i was possibly missing something good while at work.

all good that it wasnt.

when it's big, take a few paddles towards the white wash so you have some momentum going into it. push your board down when the white water is maybe 3m away. mostly push down the nose, but it doesnt really matter too much - just make sure the board is a deep as possible while maintaining control. its all about timing, so when you feel the white water hit you, pull up with your hands and push down with you legs (you'll find it easiest with your knee, preferably into the tail pad so that you dont do damage to the glass... but just let it come naturally with practice). if you dont time it right, the white water will hit the top of the board, pushing it further down, out from under you. if you time it right, the white water hits the underside of your board, propelling you up and through the back of the wash.
hope that helps.