The paddle out took forever, got pummeled on the way out by what felt like an endless surge of wash (never seamed to be a lull) and then waited for ages for a wave I could actually paddle into...hahaha.
Finally got one and it was fairly sizable, only managed a few turns before it assploaded me all over a rock (cracked the rail on the board)...then tried again to get back out...too tiring...got smashed, leash came undone, board washed in and I had a nice little swim to get back in. Beach patrol guy was slightly concerned hahaha!

Good times

In all fairness, I surfed for about 6 hours yesterday and every day for the last week and I think my arms have had it. No rest to be had though...Secrets is looking tempting for an early one tomorrow.

subasurf said...

I made the mistake this morning of giving Trigg a go.
Talk about a humbling experience...a tiring one too...uuuurgh.

What time were you there? I didn't see anyone else in the water when I was there this morning. There was a bit of size with the sets.

Yes it's great for fitness. I left at 7.30.

Quoting above not really working ...

But in response to supasurf's post:

"what rock?"

This morning was good. Clean swell and some really good waves at Trigg. Much cleaner than I thought it would be after yesterdays onshore.

12 out at Toms and no one else until 2nd's at Trigg. Plenty of good waves going unridden this morning.

Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh

smicko said...

Oh I had a fun day. Bit of travel but FUN!!!

Where and any Pics?

Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.

my bad...

smicko said...

Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.

wtf?...are you dreaming?

swalkington said...

subasurf said...

Ventured down to Secrets this morning. Lineup was almost empty and I had at least 80 metres between me and the nearest surfer.
Some real quality waves rolling through...I surfed like an absolute kook (just way too exhausted) but got lucky and managed a left tube ride (crouching) to start the sesh

Thanks for letting everyone know it was uncrowded. May as well send a personal invite to the hoards !!

Yea while they are all at work

In that case, it was so crowded this morning. Even dolphins had rocked up to take on the oldies on minimals. I strongly suggest everyone to not turn up tomorrow as it will probably be the same. Further more the ocean was basically flat with the occasional dumping wave

jbshack said...

These boards are frequented by like minded blokes and i can't see i reference hear and there making a big difference to the surf crowding...

It ain't no conspiracy..The hole idea of this thread is to share a little info FFS.

It's not the forum members you have to worry about, it's the dozens or more who aren't logged in or aren't members who just read anonymously. There's no login requirement and it's a public forum. If it were private it might not matter so much.

haha well it was the truth
There was one guy managing insane rides on what were barely even ripples...don't know how he managed to get so much speed from nothing.

Almost everyone else was on longboards. There was even a SUPer.
When there's SUPers at Secrets you know it's bad

Oh and yeah, sorry again. Don't know what I was thinking with my other post.
Silly indeed.

default said...

smicko said...

Not gettin any pics out of me on this one boys. Offshore, waist to chest high 100m+ little rights with two of us out.

wtf?...are you dreaming?

Nope, gotta think outside the square. There's lots of little nooks and crannies along our coast that are offshore in an onshore.