So - did anyone score on this swell in the metro area?
I am getting over a bad cold, so was not up for anything above an easy paddle... What I saw seemed to be well over head, wonky, with lots of close-outs.
Scabs was big mean good straight Porto Escondido nasty really good really straight all of em saw plenty snapped boards, surfed 3hrs fromm 630am caught 5 decent waves only got killed twice by rogue teahpooooooo bombs...shat myself many times laughed at much misfortune and bad choices marvelled at dumb/ brave decisions and wished for just an ounce of skaters skill
