I am not the best surfer around by any stretch of the imagination, but I have got an opinion. I just don't go out there. It scares me. If I was alone without a board, I'd probably drown. I have a good mate who is an ironman (literally) and I wouldn't say he is the best surfer around either. But he can justify going out there, because he literally can't drown. Like I asked him if he could, and he couldn't. 50 meter pool under water. Coolongata gold, rotto solo, surf carnivals where people die...

He can go out there, I am not in the same league. That's my opinion.

(edit: I think it was 100m actually, i can't remember. He didn't tell me, a friend of his told me one night. Either way, absolute waterman!)

Haha! Nah this bloke just enjoys fitness. Haha, not that sort of iron man!!

I reckon duck diving is the best option unless the lip is going to axe you right on the back.

One thing i have learnt in 30yrs of surfing is

FOAM FLOATS BONES DON'T.
Even if the duck dive goes pear shaped it's still better/safer to hang/cling on to your board as it will shoot you back to the surface alot quicker that your body.

In addition to that if it's the first wave of a set, ducking diving will drag you in a bit and get you out of the impact zone where as bailing will mean as you finally get back to the surface the next one lands on your head.

Bender said...

I reckon duck diving is the best option unless the lip is going to axe you right on the back.

One thing i have learnt in 30yrs of surfing is

FOAM FLOATS BONES DON'T.
Even if the duck dive goes pear shaped it's still better/safer to hang/cling on to your board as it will shoot you back to the surface alot quicker that your body.

In addition to that if it's the first wave of a set, ducking diving will drag you in a bit and get you out of the impact zone where as bailing will mean as you finally get back to the surface the next one lands on your head.

Not when it tips you upside down and you end up pinned to the bottom by your board

WINDY MILLER said...
10/10 effort

I agree Windy. Great post. Although as for execution he gets a 1/10 for bad timing!!!!

Caught between a rock and a hard place

And Who doesn't like seeing a lid rider get flogged

BulldogPup said...

^^^^
seen that one a couple of times now - farkin horrible shiz bet the local shaper gets excited with all the repair work on

+1 have seen a few others of that spot getting worked on the high tides....money for old jam!!

Great post SP. I like how you are firing up tonight.

Yeah pup, it's just ugly, worse than Scottys avatars . But if that was my local I'd be spending the 15k on a ski and getting dropped off and picked up from the out the back, no way that is fun...

Hahaha ted... All very much in the spirit of state of origin with any Qld supporters and probably due to a few reds (wines not thumbs) in the general forum, but that is all just fun in there. It's like the sup forum used to be

Looks like you're new board will get a warm welcome this weekend, the reports varied but looks like there should be some nice waves around... Road trip planned for Monday for me, going north, hopefully clubbing a 4ft plus seal.

SP said...... Road trip planned for Monday for me, going north, hopefully clubbing a 4ft plus seal.

Nice idea. I have already booked myself a surfing day on Monday.......lets chat closer to the time as that might just me a lovely idea....as long as there is a touch of east in it!! Or maybe you can come down my way and I will take you out to a reef or two,.......I know you want to!

Thanks guys, been interesting to hear some other peoples point of view, also good to know I'm not the only one getting flogged.

WINDY MILLER said...

10/10 effort

Grew up surfing that wave, been in that guys position countless times, not as bad as it looks. The only time I have ended up back on the rocks was when I got hit by a 20 wave set.