First time posting in this just looking for a little help or advice. I use to surf between the ages of 6-14. between 12-14 I use to ride a shortboard but before that it was always a bodyboard, I was more than comfortable on it and wasn't too bad on it. I'm now 23 and have just recently moved to the gold coast from the U.K. The last couple of weeks i've tried going out on my surfboard which I bought since getting here, it's about 6'1 maybe slightly smaller, today and yesterday i've just not been able to get past the break....AT-ALL. In the end I gave up and was surfing in about 2 foot of water and riding in until the fins hit the sand....albeit surfing for 10 foot and standing up for 4 of that 10 foot wasn't as fun as anticipated. I weigh about 60kg at the most and am about 5'7 so i'm effectively pretty nimble.

Is my board to little to try and start on after such a long lay off should I look at getting another board? Am I doing everything wrong? I sit down on the beach for 20 minutes or so before getting in the water and observe everyone else, the technique, the movement etc but I just can't seem to follow suit and just can't get past the break, any ideas or advice? I've tried duck diving but by the time i've gone under i've been pushed back so far it feels like i'm not getting anywhere and by then i'm so tired I can't even get back out!

Hey man I know how you feel

Does the wave break the whole way down the beach or just in certain sections i.e reef or sand bank?

If this is the case then you just gotta paddle around the breaking zone.

If not and if you cant duck dive, just bail your board and dive under the wave as it comes towards you. Dont be afraid of the waves pulling your leg off, just tug back on the board when the wave pulls it. When you come up just jump on your board and keep paddling and do the same until you get outside the breaking zone.

This is an example of getting caught inside (i.e caught in the breaking zone)



And yeh, as sparki said you just gotta wait it out until the big sets subside. If they dont subside then the waves are probably a bit big for you considering your beginner state

Mate just ditch your board when the wave comes like the guy in the video, this way you wont get pulled with the wave as you can just resist the pull of your board (your board will slice through the water). Assuming you have a leg strap just tug on it when the wave comes and retrieve it when you get to the surface and continue paddling. - Repeat until you get out past the break! Oh and make sure there's nobody behind you when you ditch your board.

Don't ditch your board. If you ditch your board it better be serious waves. Not sunny 1' gold coast. Ditch your board in a busy spot and you might get some harsh attention, deservedly so.

borklazer go to a quiet spot and practice duckdiving. I'm sure the internet will have videos and stuff.

Just go jump of the point at snapper with everyone else. It's only a 10 metre wade through a couple of whitewashes then a quick paddle out between waves and you'll be amongst it!

PaulyOS said..
Hey man I know how you feel

Does the wave break the whole way down the beach or just in certain sections i.e reef or sand bank?

If this is the case then you just gotta paddle around the breaking zone.

If not and if you cant duck dive, just bail your board and dive under the wave as it comes towards you. Dont be afraid of the waves pulling your leg off, just tug back on the board when the wave pulls it. When you come up just jump on your board and keep paddling and do the same until you get outside the breaking zone.

This is an example of getting caught inside (i.e caught in the breaking zone)



And yeh, as sparki said you just gotta wait it out until the big sets subside. If they dont subside then the waves are probably a bit big for you considering your beginner state

NEVER BAIL YOUR BOARD!!!!!

Most of the time it pays to hang on to your board:

- Your board is a flotation device. Hang on to it tight especially when it's big.

- If it's big and you bail, then your leg rope snaps, it might be a long swim!

I only ditch my board because it's an 8ft boat... not a small shortboard.

Hipster + no legrope + board ditch = even more offensive

Whats the trick Chrispy? I'm 76kgs wet through and ride a 33ltr board. I have no issues duck diving it, but don't ever seem to get as deep as I'd like on the bigger sets which means I get caught inside for longer than I'd like.

Now I'm not expecting you to give me a tip that lets me duck dive like this... but I'm sure you wise old head has some sage advice for a youngster like me

How strong a swimmer are you?

Borklazer316 said..
Looks like i've had a massive amount of help from all the guys on here, thanks! Unfortunately another unsuccessful day, 3 hours spent in the water, total number of waves rode : 0. I spent about 30-45 minutes trying to get out but couldn't manage it so went and sat down on the beach for half hour watching people go in, looking out for the duck diving technique they were using and everything else in between.

I went back in and got within maybe 15 metres of the break point but eventually got washed back into shore. Starting to get a little bit frustrating now as I can't really tell what else I should be doing, at one point I let the rip pull me out a bit but it only took me so far. I surfed Burleigh today and that's where I usually go as it's only 5 minutes away from my house. Would surf lessons be something I should be going for here? I feel like they'd be a bit of a waste because the whole point in learning to surf is the enjoyment and accomplishment you get out of it yourself, I use to ride a bmx in skateparks and stuff and learning something new myself was a great feeling of accomplishment and I don't want to take that away from it and my only problem right now is getting past the break, do surf schools even just teach classes on how to get past break? haha

I didn't let go of the board just incase anybody thinks i'm a kook!

Mate without doubt you should book a few lessons from a school on the bigger foam boards and get yourself a bigger board,this will fast track your skills.

Dawn Patrol said..
Maybe combination of fitness and technique? Keep it up, you'll get out eventually, maybe at a different spot on a different day. It'll come.
Good persistence, I'd be pissed right off after not making it after that long!!!

mmmm i surfed burleigh today and it was one of the easier days with the swell we had. so i sorta dont know what to say now..

salty now your just mocking me.... if you can duck dive a small wave you can do the same on a bigger one....i will say that on a few bigger ones i have felt the wave pass over me and im thinking all is good.....then i get sucked back and dragged. glad im still holding onto my board though

oh i find it easier o the bigger waves as generally it is in deeper water,or they help force the board under more

Borklazer316 said..
Like you said you surfed burleigh today and it was one of the easier days so at-least you're probably understanding my frustration lol, feels like it could just be a combination of fitness and technique now more than anything, suppose nothing else left to do except keep trying, back down burleigh tomorrow to tackle the break haha!

mate it will be blowing north tomorrow,so you might want to go north

yep keep on trying mate and will all happen

PaulyOS said..
Hahahahha so much hate

That's because you're a kook giving idiotic advice to a beginner.

Another one person out snapper wouldn't be a problem surely..it is one foot most days anyway. Otherwise perhaps try the spit (when it's small) and jump in the rip next to the groyne to the north or the pylons of the jetty to the south, the channels and water flow may help you get out there.