it was touch and case. blood wouldn't stop flowing. they kicked out all the old people like mac so I could get serviced.
they ended up gluing it.
funny. I was out there thinking this is pretty solid and the tides still dropping. I should get out of here. sweeps a prick too.
then this mid size one comes through. thick, but a good shape. a few of the other lefts just shut down as I was taking off.
so I go. hand on rail, the new pgerm is a big step up in performance, bottom turn , flying and in sync
then the wave goes really ugly- throwing out, brown and closing out.
I straighten out with heaps of speed to avoid the lip bounce and jump off.
I wait under water. can't feel any legrope pressure so up I come.
doh, right the corner above my eye. the boney bit.
unlucky or lucky