After 11 days out of the water with torn muscles In my lower back I finally got back out .... Yahoo
Took the longboard out ( only lb in the break) with about 10 guys on shorties. Super cool crowd and got some great rides In about 3ft of very peaky fast shore break/swell
Was surfing the board in territory that was ... Let's say interesting on the drop.. But ****e it was fun when you pulled it off

Bloody stoked to be back in the water... super frothed



Frothing for tomorrow
"edit"...local at lighthouse beach