Are you the new pup.Weiry?reds for everything

Surf I went to macs spot yesterday...for a while..too crowded,then headed north of Kirra and scored pumping beachies

Today I went on a boat trip to a nearby island...
My first wave was never to be forgotten...dropped down late straight into a massive tube,best wave off the year...everything went downhill from there.....
I have never been so scared as I was for the next 30 minutes. This is another thread....yet right now I'm so happy to be at work...because at one stage I was praying....
**** that ****,i'm old and don't need it....yet that first one
still plays over in my mind