surfed queeny in the morning, very average, and bommie in the arvo. Bommie was better but I was having a lot of trouble getting hold a decent one outside and I was thinking about going inside, then a gem of a wave came through and I paddled like crazy to get on.
I did finally manage to get on but by that time I was way up on the lip, but for once in my life I was actually doing the right thing and paddling into it diagonally. The drop was a real buzz and I heard a couple guys whistling and hooting after the drop, as it was walling up and I was trimming.
I wished I could have acknowledged them but I was too busy concentrating on a) staying on the board & b) not sh!tting in my wetty