climber said...Well, Just got back from a week in the Byron area. (Broken Head)
Monday to Wednesday 2-3ft warm SE swell, light breeze and lots....and I mean lots of wave..made a pig of myself (as did my son
)..these days were just fun waves with some great long rides... rode everything from mals to shortboard..
Thursday and Friday....ahhhh the NE blew in so no surfing, but did notice the changing swell direction and it growing in size
Wake up Saturday .... OMG, what a difference 12hrs would make. The place became no place for a mal....! Light NE - E breeze and 4-6ft standing up solid on the sand making the faces at times well in the double OH mark. Some of the bomb sets would send the entire crowd heading for the horizon....if you did not make it... It felt like you were being slighted to Perth
(For those that know the place, at times the waves would break over the sisters....!)
Broke out the 6'10...with some serious trepidation, but heh ..YOLO
.. Got some epic rides and some EPIC wipeouts (read ; I think I Paid my life insurance type thoughts after sufacing
).
One attempt to paddle out after the return run back around from the previous wave and timing it wrong saw me washed some 300mtr down the beach back to the exit point from the ride. Other fared worse with numerous broken boards. Many of the better surfers (not me) pulled some great and brilliant barrels ... I stayed well clear of those although some chose to close out over me
..... not my choice...just bad positioning by yours truly.
Fell asleep at 8.00pm ...but with us leaving on Sunday.. I was keen for one more thrashing.
Woke about 5.00am and the wafts of a light SE breeze...waiting for enough daylight
All I can say about Sunday .... Long....Clean ...Faaaaaaast .... Unforgiving ...... and please can I do it all again.
No wind, tide high so the full length of the back was on...
After an 1.5hrs and some awesome waves, I got out (thank God, we packed the night before...totally stuffed). Spent time watching the crowd grow and wave after wave being mauled by some incredible surfing. Far there are some brilliant surfers on this planet..was in awe of the display!
Best session on big wave I have ever had... crowd was insane but with so many waves it just did not matter.... I can still feel the adrenaline in the system today...yeeeewwwwwwwwww
