had a great day today

got up about 5.30 took the scooter for a spin and noticed the swell has decided to show.mates have all gone barra fishing so i
grabbed the wife and slater and went for a drive up the beach.
4.2m tides today so i had to wait till 9 before entering the car on the beach.
lots of cars up the beach,not unusual being a sunday,but plenty of peaks with 3 or 4 surfers.
clean shoulder hi waves with bigger waves on the sets ,the bloody banks started moving around on the dropping tide that made it difficult to be in position.
got some nice waves, but the great thing, i was sharing a bank with three blokes, who i noticed weren't the greatest surfers
but to their credit didn't drop in or get in the way,,, great vibe.

took off on MY wave of the day when down the line one of the blokes thought about it, but didn't… when i paddled back out ,i said thanks mate, i bet you were tempted.
he said i was thinking you won't make it..but then thought plenty of waves hey...


i think its funny when I'm catching waves "don't mater how big" when the biggest set rolls in i always start hooting..to funny


