Carles RSPro said..
Late drops on hollow waves in Hossegor ... I'm in. Where do I sign?
Would love to join you on a session in my next trip to Southen France

Just contact me when you get there... I do not like to travel, so I am always at home :-)

6'5", slimmed down to 91kg from 108.
dropped down from an 8'8 123L Sunova Speeed to this 7'11 110L custom step railed beast from Coil Industries:
Rock solid stability, I could have gone smaller. Still don't feel like I have the fins dialed in yet though.

That does look bloody lovely.

Whats it like in the mush?

I have sure been on a journey. I have 20 boards now, and I have gone in two directions lately.

I have an 8'7 Placid and an 8'5 Infinity Blurr V2 - those boards are to satisfy my inner grom.

I have a 9'4 Acid and a 12' Point Break when the waves are smaller or the conditions are crappier.

The board I have ridden the most of late has been the 9'1 Acid and the 8'10 Acid when the conditions were good.

My problem is that after taking weight off, I have gone back up to 100 kg. I am 6'3 and 57 yo.

I love the Acid's, but I am secretly hopeful about the V2; it is so easy to get your foot on the tail and throw old-man turns.

July 2017, a co-worker who knew I surfed told me that he had started down-winding on SUP, that it was a great whole-body work out, and that I should try it. Of course my first response was (jokingly) that "SUP's are for kooks" After thinking about it a bit, I called up a friend who owns a local surf shop, asked him what he had for race boards, and ended up with a carbon 12'6"x27"x212L board. The first SUP I ever even stood on. Paddled it daily for a workout on the bay by my house, and one day there were some waist-high, glassy rollers coming in. Thought "I wonder if you can surf this thing?" Caught about thirty 200 meter glides, and was hooked. Realized I needed something better, and bought a cheap local brand 10'X32x? cruiser. Busted the side fins out pretty quick, and thought "There must be something better..." At this time, I knew people were surfing SUP's, but thought it was limited to tanker cruisers. Five minutes with Google was a real eye opener. Ended up progressing through boards all the way down to an 8'x28"x100L "Thruster" shape, and then bouncing back to what works best for what I like. One of the major appeals of SUP to me is ditching the crowds, and being able to access more remote peaks without the hassle of a sea kayak. The smaller boards feel as if I'm constantly digging myself out of a hole, which doesn't work well for hitting a reef a mile out, especially if it's got some chop. Now, I'll use that board if it's got some power, it's clean, and pretty easily accessible. My go-to board is a 10'x28"x125L long board, with pinched rails, and a very pulled in tail. I surf this board in most conditions, from onshore, knee-high slop to overhead and barreling. There's a 8'10"x29"x115L semi-gun in there for the bigger days, and some in-betweens. Interestingly (to me at least), is that I always hated longboards, and have only ever owned one. With the SUP, I love this board so much, I ordered the same one, only in carbon. On the really small days, I'll still surf a race board, the flat water board if it's glassy, and a true 14' downwinder if it's a little beat up. Glide is a big factor. At 50, and with sore knees, I just don't feel the need to hack a wave to pieces anymore, and really enjoy the rail turns you can do on a larger SUP. 178cm and 85kg. My garage situation before I got busy and built some racks...