Most forums would have a post for good tips and tricks, usually can be made a sticky, so I thought I would try and start one...


All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.

So, next time you rig up, you will find that it is easier to thread the downhaul the sail, pull on the boom, cleat the downhaul etc if you rig on the right. Sails logos are to be viewed on the right except for Severne.

This tip was from Guy Cribb's Intuition and has saved me minutes

If you don't cut your toe nails you will get holes in your booties.

GrumpySmurf said...
[br]Most forums would have a post for good tips and tricks, usually can be made a sticky, so I thought I would try and start one...


All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.

So, next time you rig up, you will find that it is easier to thread the downhaul the sail, pull on the boom, cleat the downhaul etc if you rig on the right. Sails logos are to be viewed on the right except for Severne.

This tip was from Guy Cribb's Intuition and has saved me minutes

Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.

Always do up the vent plug.
Always tighten your mast base (30 sec saves 30minute swim)

I love Gybe marks

ikw777 said..

GrumpySmurf said...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.

Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.

But then you have to flip the sail when you pick up your gear after rigging. If you rigged on starboard you wouldn't have to. I think.
I still don't get this reason.

evlPanda said..

ikw777 said..

GrumpySmurf said...
All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.

Its bc they are designed in WA where the wind comes from the southwest.

But then you have to flip the sail when you pick up your gear after rigging. If you rigged on starboard you wouldn't have to. I think.
I still don't get this reason.

Here's an old thread that discussed this issue but at that time I was use to rigging my Severne Code Red on its port side so it was foreign to rig on the starboard side. Since then all my Lofts rig on the starboard side and I have flipped the clamps of my booms if the clamp rope didn't attach over the topside (of the mast)opposed to underneath were the taut luff panel made it very difficult to fit the rope toi the clamp.[does any of that make sense ????]

www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Gps/Rigging-KA-Koncept/

GrumpySmurf said..

Most forums would have a post for good tips and tricks, usually can be made a sticky, so I thought I would try and start one...


All sails/booms/extensions are designed to be rigged "on the right" - ie, on the starboard tack or with the mast on your right hand. EXCEPT for Severne which is all designed backwards to be rigged on the left.

So, next time you rig up, you will find that it is easier to thread the downhaul the sail, pull on the boom, cleat the downhaul etc if you rig on the right. Sails logos are to be viewed on the right except for Severne.

This tip was from Guy Cribb's Intuition and has saved me minutes

Useful tip

da vecta said..

It's got to do with parking your car on the left and rigging on that little strip of grass next to the car.

We've also got little strips of grass on the east coast.

tight fin goes in easy with sunscreen cream

sausage said..


Here's an old thread that discussed this issue but at that time I was use to rigging my Severne Code Red on its port side so it was foreign to rig on the starboard side. Since then all my Lofts rig on the starboard side and I have flipped the clamps of my booms if the clamp rope didn't attach over the topside (of the mast)opposed to underneath were the taut luff panel made it very difficult to fit the rope toi the clamp.[does any of that make sense ????]

I did the same thing by accident when I reassembled my chinook boom with the head on upside down. It works much better for rigging for the same reason. I then realised I could just use my other chinook boom upside down, after swapping the harness lines, for the same effect... duh

Much better than rigging with the clamp hinging at the top, which I found out recently when using another boom.

and I am still amazed by people that don't tape up their mast join. I don't think I have had a mast stick together ever since I started doing this, and never have to worry about the mast coming apart inside the luff sleeve when derigging.

Mind you, not everyone uses a whole roll like I do...

Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.

Your fin isn't designed to be a depth gauge for sand bars. Step off before you hit the sand not afterwards. I seem to always misjudge the depth of water and end up with a fin just a little shorter than it was designed for.
Also on this subject, a gybe takes more room than you think, don't start too close to shore or ouch.

LittleOnion said...

gavnwend said...
Is it any consolidation l have still got a two peice mast (one peice now) that won't come apart 2 years now . Try'ed everthing to no avail.

Just thinking along physics but wouldnt cold be a way shrinking I.e. heat expands. Maybe ask at the local bottle shop if u can leave it in the large beer fridge for an hour or two then have a go. Might sound dumb but has some theory behind it. Worst case u can stock up on the beers

If you could get it cold enough it would just shrink the entire joint making harder to separate. Surely heat would expand the entire connection and.make it easier to.separate.

My 400 wave mast ( tsunami) has been fused together for almost 2 years l have even taken it into engineers shops ^ & they have tried to free it to no avail .any more solutions will be good.