I found the transition from freeride board to pure slalom to be a steeper learning curve than expected For instance the foot straps are very close to the waterline and I found myself sticking my feet in the water more often than sticking in them in the straps.Perhaps you should be looking a higher performance freeride board like a JP SuperSport or Starboard Carve instead of a purebread like the iSonic, they're still nice and light, able to carry bigger sails but remain friendly in the chop.

It depends on which boards you intend on keeping, most people only carry one board bigger than 115L as a light wind board.

If I were you I'd decide to keep either the Go OR the Isonic, not both.

If you keep the Go then buy something around 118L (I have owned both a JP SuperSport118 and a iSonic117 and just been able to uphaul them both at 95kg)

If you keep the iSonic then buy something around 105-110L, you probably wont be able to uphaul it but anything bigger wont feel any different to the iSonic133

Mark _australia said..
IMHO - wait a little longer. Anything you buy in slalom or freeride that is easy to uphaul will be so close to the 133L iSonic that tere is no point.
I say wait a bit til you can waterstart reliably, then get a 100L FSW for the windy days, and ditch the 144L Go then.

I am wondering what the relationship is between the volume of boards and their ability to handle swell/chop. Is a lower volume board better able to handle the swell. I find that with my boards they tend to bounce around a bit - would that change with a lower volume board.

Why do the lower volume boards tend to require lower sized sails.

Wide boards usually to have quite flat bottoms and as a result 'slap' across the water, thinner boards are usually shaped to allow more of a cushioned ride. Wide boars are also susceptible to 'lift', this occurs when the wind gets under the board while going across chop, making the board difficult to control.Your sail size is limited by your fin size, i.e. if you have too much sail for your fin you will spin out (technically called fin cavitation)Your fin size is limited by the size of your board, if your fin is too big the board will be sluggish getting onto the plane and have too much lift when you are planing

There is a lot more than just volume to consider.
133L sounds like an improvers board in volume but the iSonics are advanced boards to ride - with outboard footstraps and great acceleration. They are not the softest ride in chop. This is not what you want when you are learning. You need inboard straps with variable positions, a comfortable ride, and less acceleration.
The 133 iSonic is not an intermediates board, it is a light wind performance board.
In the Starboard range a Carve or a Futura would be much better. The Carve if you are learning to gybe. A Kode would be even better for chop and swell. You want a free ride or free move board.
144 to 133 is quite a small step in volume too. I would recommend you sell your iSonic, learn to waterstart on your 144 then go straight to a 121.

The minimum volume you need to comfortably waterstart is your weight plus 30 kgs. I.E. in your case 90+30 = 120lit, hence your friends recommendation. Mark is right, learn to waterstart then you have more options because you could then go for something between 100 and 110l and still keep your 130lit isonic.

The other thing you need to think about is what is your preferred type of sailing:
- going fast in flat water (i.e. GPS) - Slalom board (Isonic / Futura / Atomic)
- bump and jump in the bay or - Free ride board (Carve)
- wave riding - Wave or Freestyle wave board

This will help your determine what type of 110l board you want

Kunjenboy said..

Mark _australia said..
IMHO - wait a little longer. Anything you buy in slalom or freeride that is easy to uphaul will be so close to the 133L iSonic that tere is no point.
I say wait a bit til you can waterstart reliably, then get a 100L FSW for the windy days, and ditch the 144L Go then.

I am wondering what the relationship is between the volume of boards and their ability to handle swell/chop. Is a lower volume board better able to handle the swell. I find that with my boards they tend to bounce around a bit - would that change with a lower volume board.

Why do the lower volume boards tend to require lower sized sails.

Usually used in more wind so you'd use a smaller rig.( freeriding)
The GPS slalom guys tend to rig a big sail on little boards because they go faster but you need to be a better sailor to gybe them etc.

What about the atomic iq 120? I just like to cruise around with good conttoo over swell/chop - still not sure about the water start as I have a bad back.

Kunjenboy said..
What about the atomic iq 120? I just like to cruise around with good conttoo over swell/chop - still not sure about the water start as I have a bad back.

The Atomic has the same rocker as the Isonic, so it will probably be a relatively harsh ride over chop. If you want control and comfort, then a freeride board is the go (eg Starboard Carve is one example).

With regard to waterstarting and uphauling, I find water starting easier on the back than up hauling.

sboardcrazy said..

Waiting4wind said..
If you are learning and you want a smooth ride then forget slalom boards. A isonic 133 is best suited to a 8-9 m sail. You need a big cammed sail and good technique to drive off the fin and fly the board above the chop.

A 120 litre freeride board would be a good option.

Tabou Rocket / Starboard carve etc

I have a Tabou Rocket and you'll notice it handles the chop really well. It has a nice double concave which flattens out along the board towards the tail. Handles bay/chop sailing beautifully. Its fast too, gybes well. Just not impressed with the durability to be honest. Outside that, a great board. I agree with Mark, wait till you can waterstart and gybe. And seriously, embrace the speed, that's what its all about.

Mark _australia said..
After the last couple of posts Kunjenboy made - are you planing?

Yes. I do lots of planing. The last nine months I have sailed extensively - as much as I can. Before then, maybe twenty years ago on a Wayler Breeze with a Gaastra cammed sail - 7.5m at Lake Macquarie - Speers Point, Canton Beach - and Newcastle Harbour.

This has been the best nine months of my life - getting back in touch with the ocean, sailing, and the magical feeling of getting on the "plane"

I have really enjoyed the great feedback over the last couple of days. Thanks for all the advice from everyone. It helps motivate me to improve my skills and the knowledge from experienced members of this community is invaluable. This is a great network. Please get in touch if you are ever up in Port Douglas. We have a small group of about 15 sailors in the Cairns area and trips out to Green Island are pretty awesome as well. Like I said, this is my first serious nine months of windsurfing - and I am just loving the support I get from everyone in this way of life.

Hey Kunje,

I see the name Starboard Carve popping up a few times. I sail ocean / bay conditions most of the time, so pretty choppy, rolling swells and a few waves to jump and play on. I just recently bought a 2013 model Carve (111 litre) and I have to say it was a wise move for my rough-ish water exploits. At you're weight, and ability, I'd say the 111 litre job would be sweet. I'm 80 kg and the Carve is perfect from 2-20 knots. You may be right on it up to 25 knots being heavier. With sails from 6-8 meters they're are awesome boards. Sort of like a detuned FSW board, but still turn as hard as you can, and hammer nicely up to around 35 knots if you're brave enough. Very versatile- and forgiving- boards.

When 20 to 30 knots, Mark's 100 litre FSW idea is a wise move. I have a 2012, 101 RRD FSW and it's friggen awesome in18-25 knot stuff with 5- 5.5 meter sails. Amazing style of board, so fast and turn like a slot car.