I'm looking for some advice about how to tackle a bit of damage to my trusty 2015 92L Starboard Kode wave.

There is an area on the deck of some small cracks just in front of the left foot strap - about 5 in total (can be seen entirely within the photos). Initially I thought they were just superficial, but the other day noticed a salty residue suggesting that water had run out of a crack - this seems to be limited to only one of the cracks (most forward one). The deck in slightly soft when pressed firmly in the area of some cracks, and slightly soft also over the darkened area in places too. However, the softness is very very slight for the most part, and definitely no crunching sounds that board lady refers to. I would not have noticed any softness if it were not for the darkening - presumably water related.

So, what I'm wonder which repair option should this be:

1) A case of cutting away the cracked sections, filling and glassing etc - I'm currently thinking this will not address the deck softness, so will likely crack again; or
2) Do some injection of two part foam to address the slight softness, along the lines of this (boardlady.com/injection.htm), then proceed to repair the cracks by cutting, filling, glassing etc; or
3) Get the board to a repairer for more extensive repairs of the damaged deck section - I currently think this is not necessary as the softness is still very slight. Also, the board is in great condition otherwise, so open surgery wouldn't be ideal; or
4) Something else?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
May thanks,
Mark

I'm new to this kind of construction , is there glass over the wood lam ?
Is it just resin soaked wood and that's it , ?
If it is. , I see it a hard to fix construction.
I have a wood veneer bottom formula board that I don't get , I can scratch with my finger nail thru to the wood !

I have an older *board Freeformula with this construction. Half the board is exposed wood, the other painted and the board had spent some time in the sun before my purchase (I had to replace deck padding that had turned to powder). The durability of the painted side is so much better than the visible wood. fwiw, I wasn't having deck softness, etc, but water was seeping through to smaller cracks in the resin so I used acrylic clear coat to reseal the board. The advantage is that it doesn't significantly reduce the effectiveness of the non-skid.

A shame that starboard never came up with a more durable coating or just had painted the board instead of preferring aesthetics.

That wood can be replaced, it is just pine veneer. It will of course have a seam visible, but I've also kinda sorta painted it also so its not obvious unless u really look. Its possible to replace that and not really see it.

As for the glue - it is a dodgy temp only fix for sure. I will post a pic of the product tonight if you want to do it. Was just thinking a few small holes, inject and block them up so it sets nice and dense. Holes can then have a bit of glass and resin over the top. Only as it absorbs some moisture and will glue up any styro cracks, but I still think full repair.

Thanks Mark. Like your idea. A link / photo of the glue product would be great. Will doing a quick fix and look to repair properly at end of season. Thanks.

Hi. Great thread. Just wandering, to inject the 2-part polyurethane foam, how deep should i screw the holes?