I have a Gunn euro pin uni base with a long pin, and have a small pin to replace it with (also Gunn). There is a locktite glue that is on the existing pin, anyone had a go at replacing one? clockwise thread or anti-clockwise?

Just holding it as it is with one hand on the mast base and using a spanner in the other is not really making it budge........

ideally a vice to or something to hold the base in place then you can apply your effort to the spanner to loosen the pin the longer the spanner length the easier it is.

ive used a heat gun, paint stripper type ,not oxy
this softens the locktite, just be carefull not to use too much heat and damage the rubber.

how much is too much,how long is a piece of string?

pliers like this will spread the load better than a vice.

wrap some insulation tape aroud it or a piece of car tube and use a pair of these. right on the end, not around the middle.

K Dog said...

I have a Gunn euro pin uni base with a long pin, and have a small pin to replace it with (also Gunn). There is a locktite glue that is on the existing pin, anyone had a go at replacing one? clockwise thread or anti-clockwise?

Just holding it as it is with one hand on the mast base and using a spanner in the other is not really making it budge........

Not sure why you want to shorten the pin but if you must, just cut it down with a hacksaw & debur with a file.

If you want to change the pin, heat the pin over the gas stove (not too hot) it will make the loctite soft.
Keep trying to unscrew while heating the end of the pin, then put it in cold water as soon as its undone.
There is a brass or alloy insert inside the Uni so the rubber won't be damaged if you are quick about it.
Definitely a RH thread.

I had the same problem with one of my extensions when I changed to this base and i just drilled a hole in the extension.

Mark _australia said...
Another reason Chinook tendon style is better than Boge (hourglass) uni.

Heat the pin as mentioned, about 100deg will do it, and hold the top of the rubber with adjustable pliers and it should be not too hard.

you're kidding, right?

nearly all my sailing buddies have had a tendon break. I've found Boge not only less likely to let go but start with a small tear (maybe onlty a couple % of area/volumne) so you have plenty of warning that you need to get another.

Tightly wrap rope or even an old shirt around uni till it bulges and use multigrip pliers to hold it firmly if vice is not available. You can usually break the Loctite with this method without heating it....unless it was assembled with Red Loctite which would be insane for whoever applied it.

yoyo said...

Mark _australia said...
Another reason Chinook tendon style is better than Boge (hourglass) uni.

Heat the pin as mentioned, about 100deg will do it, and hold the top of the rubber with adjustable pliers and it should be not too hard.

you're kidding, right?

nearly all my sailing buddies have had a tendon break. I've found Boge not only less likely to let go but start with a small tear (maybe only a couple % of area/volumne) so you have plenty of warning that you need to get another.

BOGE: can't see the crack starting in some places due to wide strap.

I'd rather trust downhaul rope as the failsafe, then a piece of nylon strap which may be worn under the joint where you can't see it, and it has a hole thru it anyway. You can replace the downhaul rope too.

I have had 4 years out of a tendon and then replaced it vountarily when I realised just how old it was. Others I changed after 2yrs just cos. Is that not enough?

But the main issue I am raising here is serviceability. Buy Chinook tendon uni's and you have fatter bolts (no seizing up) and big chunky metal cups that are CNC machined from stainless and you can bung it in a vice and wrench on it. Unlike Boge and unlike the old cast alum cups on older tendon bases.

K Dog said...
Ah

I'm always buying things that need to be fixed...... why can't windsurfing gear all be generic fittings.......... windsurfing engineers pay attention

Recently a mate bought a new mast base the same as his existing one assuming it would also fit his "same brand" extension, wrong!!!!

When he got to Cervantes he discovered that it didn't fit.
He had to remove about 1mm from the bottom of the extension to make it work.

There is excuse for crap like that [}:)]