and???? What are you asking????

..it doesn't matter what the question was, but the answer should be to load up your weight on the rail more as you carve.

More commitment to the carve.

What was the question?

BEND ZE KNEEZ!

and then bend them some more for gybing in chop.

Doing too small a radius and then stalling kind of defeats the purpose, stick with trying to keep your speed up.

I dunno about the sticking the bum out more!
Are you making the change to kiting?

You want your weight over your feet, not hanging out the back coz you're bent over double. How will you balance?

MikeyS said...

If you aim to gybe across and down the face of a wave you then get to surf down the wave to keep the speed up, with less pressure on the sail. So start your turn when you are close to the crest and (hopefully) carve down the face.

Unless you're on slalom gear I find trying to keep the gybe a bit tighter after the chop/wave face carve helps b4 next chop slows the board down.

MikeyS said...
If you aim to gybe across and down the face of a wave you then get to surf down the wave to keep the speed up, with less pressure on the sail. So start your turn when you are close to the crest and (hopefully) carve down the face.

My gybes are too wide to stay on one chop..they might be 30 - 50m diameter

It helps to have your front hand overhand grip on the boom as you go into the gybe, tends to make you pull down more on the boom and keeps the rail engaged.
Particularly good in rough water.

sboardcrazy said...

Sorry- what causes the rail to dig in & is it avoidable? What could I be doing wrong?
5m sail -95ltre board 18 - 23kts Ne with c 2 1/2 ft chop..

Actually I think its a problem with your Tabou Rocket 95 being to big for you. I would be happy to take it off you hands as that's the perfect board for me! (have 'wanted' ad in Seabreeze buy & sell for a Rocket 95).

I really do want one but jokes aside, maybe not enough speed going into the turn to keep the board carving around on its new course along with insufficient commitment to the turn. Also think that it could be a confidence thing in guiding the board through and over the bumpy bits, gotta tell yourself u can do it! (just look at what
else you've achieved lately!). Also lower your centre of gravity by bending z knees, very important when carving in choppy water.

sboardcrazy said...

Bummer that's scary.It's been happening now I'm trying to commit more and let the sail pull me forward etc.. I'm obviously not getting it..Thats was how I smashed my front tooth last season so that's probably in the back of my mind and having me hang back a bit.
I was starting to get it in the flat water but now I'm trying the same thing in chop it's not happening.
So it shouldn't matter about the radius of the turn -just commit & carve? I'm trying to do longer radius turns to keep the speed up..
Would it be safer to do small radius turns in chop & just lose speed?

Chop makes it hard. Engaging/setting the rail is key to a smoothish run over the back of chop, with lots of knee bend. As you let the sail pull you forward you should be progressively over sheeting to depower (front arm straight tipping the rig forward, back arm sheeted in - the "bow and arrow" position) then when completely depowered you just surf through the next bit of the turn negotiating the bumps on the rail. Its still pretty bumpy but its manageable. You have to be going fast. If you feel the need to stay powered up to pull you through the turn you're not going fast enough to start with.

Going fast comfortably in bumps is key.

You can do small radius turns. If you lose speed you pretty much have to. Stalled gybes are mainstream practice. They are a necessary journeyman turn but they're not fun. Look up "Snap gybes" or "Pivot gybes" for fun tight turns.

sboardcrazy said...

Sorry- what causes the rail to dig in & is it avoidable? What could I be doing wrong?
5m sail -95ltre board 18 - 23kts Ne with c 2 1/2 ft chop..

Actually, what about the 'mismatch' of 5 metre wavesail with a boom length of approx 163cm? (for 2012 Sailworks Revo 5.0 though unsure what year yours is) paired with a fast, flat rockered freeride board like the Rocket 95?

For the past 3 windsurf seasons I've pretty much sailed only a Fanatic Hawk 93 in all conditions (which is near identical in dimensions, speed and purpose to the Rocket 95) with mostly 5.3 & 5.9 freeride sails and occasionally with a 4.5 wave sail. These fast freeride boards handle and gybe very differently with wave sails than with a more powerful freeride sail. I would suspect that a 5.0 wave sail like the Revo would lack the power to really drive a board like the Hawk or Rocket into and through a turn in choppy water (gotta have the power on to keep the rail engaged, particularly when initiating the turn).

I think a 'pure' freeride sail like the Sailworks Retro or similar (read your other post) around that size would be better suited to the Rocket with the Revo better matched to an 85-93L FSW or wave board.

MikeyS said...

Hmm, that sounds like a very big arc. Sounds like you might not be committing to the carve hard enough. Get aggressive girl, and aim to come out of the gybe heading downwind a bit. So rather than trying to gybe through 180degrees, bear off downwind before the gybe, then drive though the gybe bending the knees and absorbing the bumps with your knees, then come out having turned through an arc of say 135. That way you execute tthe gybe quicker are out of the "unstable zone' quicker.

Now, can you teach me how to paint.

I wish I found gybing as easy as painting..,.2nd thoughts I'm not finding my current portrait of a great dane in a grass setting very easy either..

GazMan said...

sboardcrazy said...

Sorry- what causes the rail to dig in & is it avoidable? What could I be doing wrong?
5m sail -95ltre board 18 - 23kts Ne with c 2 1/2 ft chop..

Actually I think its a problem with your Tabou Rocket 95 being to big for you. I would be happy to take it off you hands as that's the perfect board for me! (have 'wanted' ad in Seabreeze buy & sell for a Rocket 95).

I really do want one but jokes aside, maybe not enough speed going into the turn to keep the board carving around on its new course along with insufficient commitment to the turn. Also think that it could be a confidence thing in guiding the board through and over the bumpy bits, gotta tell yourself u can do it! (just look at what
else you've achieved lately!). Also lower your centre of gravity by bending z knees, very important when carving in choppy water.

I definitely need to do more dry land foot change practise..especially with the board on some sponge or something so I can tilt it..I find sometimes that I straighten out at the end or don't do an even carve.My foot pressure is dabby/uneven .Thats why I'm not game to try duck gybes again yet...
in a perfect world I'd love a 105 ltre rocket as well for my 12-18kt summer board..

Commit, bend z knees, look where you are going. I bet when you do prefect gybes on flat water you dont look at the water below you or the sail or feet? Let your knees aborsb the chop, release the sail earlier than what you think and commint to looking at where you want to go.
When learning use a wave fin or something with a bit of a curve makes it all the more forgiving.

Well I got out ..gusty 5 -20+kts with 125 + 6.6m. A bit more success but no brilliant ones..I wasn't as powered up going into the gybes as the wind waqs gusty.
Verdict - The main problems areI leave the foot change too late..weight goes onto the toes at times after the footchange + look at my hands as I gybe..
I've been sailing small boards in strong winds the last few months and with those I change my feet after I flip ( works well if really powered up). Now I have to change before a lot and ..Oh well later this weekend I'll practise the rig flip & footchange on land until I don't have to think..
The chop wasn't as bad today as I saled at Budgewoi - Coal Pt gets some nasty chop..
Had a few exhilarating scary runs with over 20kts & the 6.6m...

jsnfok said...

you need to do one or the other

-gybe rig flip THEN foot change

-gybe foot change THEN rig flip

not at the same time

Yep thats what I do . Sorry if I wasn't clear.
Its just that I've been lazy & was getting away with gybe, rig flip, then foot change and planing out with the little boards.That only works when you are really powered up and on my smaller boards..Mind you I did do one on my big board yesterday & survived ( no planing out) but I was scarily powered up entering.
If the wind isn't strong enough to be doing warp speed entries or dies half way through the gybe I need to have done the step before the flip to be in a good position to survive.I also need that on the big board.
That's going to have to be the goal for this summer.. learn it properly so I can use it on all the boards..