As I mentioned elsewhere on this forum, I have a very annoying wobble in the wing-to-fuselage connection. I am able to decrease it by wrapping two strips of soda can aluminum over the flat parts of the fuse but it does not eliminate it completely and it makes it hard to pull the wing off the fuse. So I am looking for a more or less permanent solution to this problem. I am thinking about pouring some epoxy mixed with I do not know what exactly into the barrel of the wing and sticking the fuse in there. Extra epoxy will hopefully get squeezed out. Big question is what release agent should I use on the fuse so that I can still pull it out after the resin sets? Any advise would be appreciated.

Green release agent can get sticky upon removal.
Better to combine with wax.

Have you tried adding a good supply of Lanolin grease on that part of the fuse and all connecting parts of this wing? Next time after wing breakdown / wash more lanolin. This method works for me.

Here is youtube guide for applying tape. I used it to eliminate wobbling on my mast and it worked.

Hi guys i solved the wobbly wing issue for good with an easy modification. I added another 6G screw to the wing/fuse and fitted helicoils to the small fillet that the foil bolts go into as they alway strip as there is only a few threads to tighten the bolts on. Now the bolts go all the way through and i have them cut so they are flush.

thedoor said..

Bender said..
Hi guys i solved the wobbly wing issue for good with an easy modification. I added another 6G screw to the wing/fuse and fitted helicoils to the small fillet that the foil bolts go into as they alway strip as there is only a few threads to tighten the bolts on. Now the bolts go all the way through and i have them cut so they are flush.

Another guy put a screw further up the wing didn't too right?

Yeah, it's in this thread:
www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Foiling/Slingshot-Hover-Glide-Infinity-84-wing-review

He drilled the hole to match up with the existing hole in the fuse. But, that's difficult. Just adding a new hold in the fuse seems like it would be much easier.

Found a good read about release agents and stuff:
www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/what-you-can-do-if-you-dont-want-epoxy-to-stick/

I am wondering now what kind of resin is used in wing fabrication, and what kind of resin I should use. Definitely not one of the fast curing ones.

I also like the idea of helicoils in the fillet thingy. It is so easy to strip the threads in it. Ruined a couple of them in the past.

I tried the foil tape. This worked well in terms of eliminating wobble but I had to apply it very flat and only halfway around (applied tape longitudinally). I added a thin layer of grease then carefully slid it on. It fits very tight and no real wobble now. However, I couldn't get the damn thing off to change wings out at the beach! When I do get it off I'm sure that I'll need to reapply tape. So, it's really not the best fix unless you are leaving it on, and even then you need to take it off occasionally to keep from seizing.

^^^
Cool idea, never thought of that! How many could you make out of that 15" mast?
I wounder if it's stonger aluminum then the SS forged aluminum caps. I have thought of drilling through the top of the alu cap and re taping so you can't bottom out the bolts and maybe get a extra couple threads
But don't think this would solve the wobble some are experiencing since this just stops the wing from sliding back and forth.

I noticed a wobble after de-rigging yesterday. I tried to tighten the front cap bolt and is was stripped. It looks like the bolt only grabs a few threads in aluminum cap. Wonder if it is a corrosion issue. I did not think I had overtightened the bolt. Usually when you strip something you know it right away.

Throw this aluminum in the trash(I screwed up the bolts a couple of times and the thread has already deteriorated). it is necessary to use the foot of carbon fiber or as I have a hybrid stainless steel and carbon fiber.

Well, finally I found some time to get to it. Rubbed a lot of wax on the fuselage. Packed the bolt holes with wax as well. Wrapped the mast plug insert with thin plastic tape and popped it in. Mixed a tea-spoonful of epoxy without thickener and poured it into the wing tunnel. Slowly inserted the fuselage to proper depth and made sure it is positioned straight. Next day checked how it turned out. Fuse-wing connection is rock solid. Tapped the wing off the fuse with a wooden block. They separated but "unwillingly". I think the tolerances turned out to be too tight for frequent wing changes. Fortunately I have a couple of fuses for other wings. If I have to do it again, I would use a bit of tape over the wax on the fuse prior to insertion into the wing to have a touch more wiggle room. My other wings do not have so much play as this I-84 had.
Next I plan to make a few new mast caps as "alllesad" suggested.

CAN17 - post a couple photos

You can't use a standard drill to countersink, the angle is wrong, usually 60 degrees, whereas a countersink is 90 degrees.
The other issue is the drill will grab & bite into the wing & probably drill right through before you can stop it

You can re-sharpen a drill to 90 degrees but clamp the wing down & use a drill press set to the correct depth so it can't grab & go right through.

Not sure but I think the problem is with this system there is only 1 bolt actually threaded into the fuse whereas the other 2 go through the fuse into that spacer thingy which only locates the top of the wing.
If the spacer is not a tight fit into the wing you will get wobble.
If the spacer was slightly tapered it would help or wrap it with some tape maybe.
If there are plain holes through the fuse then these could be tapped out & helicoils inserted to give 3 proper connections & ditch the spacer.
I think that might be what JJ did in another thread from memory.

I may be wrong as I haven't looked at the setup in real life close up but from the above photos that's how I see it & explains why an extra bolt helps.

Hello,
to do it I will start by sanding the inside of the foil to remove any salt hand get clean surface.
after I will put some flash breaker(special composite tape that got calibrate thickness) or use metal shim to define the thickness of the gap to fill.
If you are less than 0.2 put Meguiar's wax release agent directly on the shaft + plasticine for the hole and and mix of epoxy resine with microspheres microballoons get it thick apply a thin surface on the shaft and inside the foil and assemble both use the cap with on bolt full of release agent to get in position.

If it is over 0.2 laminate one or more layer of 200g E-glass on the shaft thickness of one layer is around 0.2.
once you have the form mad, insert it inside the foil with epoxy mix with microsphere and microballoon