why is surfing so cool

No it hasn't, the guys (numerous) that wanted to get surfing professional, which they did so they could get paid to surf. **** who wouldn't , but I don't think they foresaw where it would end up. The b'bongs etc really came along for the ride when they realised that $ was to be made here "for all' & now they're up **** creek from management issues. Now we've got, for want of a better analogy "saturday nite surfing" for comps with more adverts. Just the way it is I suppose. You wanna see the soul of surfing go down the beach & check faces on all the hasbeens that never were, all the wanna bees that never will be, all the old farts (like me) that just fken love it (for 50ys), guys & gals riding boards they made or an old clunker that dad gave them, they've all got that **** eating grin coming out of the surf "that's where the soul is". It ain't lost we're it.

jbshack said..

I don't think surfing has lost its soul. I think more people are surfing and their are way to many grumpy, over self righteous twits in the water that think they own the sport or the break, but those people never got the idea in the first place IMHO.
Having said that, i don't often let them bother me

I often wish i could get it out of my system. I feel the total frustration building after being out of the water for too long and usually i get the stink eye from the family, that i need to go surfing its like my re-charge

I'm in the same boat..lol...It's all good until someone drops in on me...morph into angry old man...Ha Ha.

The only problem being that I hope I can keep it up till I cark..just hope the back holds up

I really liked this

www.theinertia.com/surf/stay-off-my-wave-punk/