bakesy said...
exotoses? is that the ear thingy? My apologies for thinking a head cold would stop you but would you have surfed that wave the next day?
Yeah the ear thing, pain is over now and the healing started. It's so damned itchy it feels like ants crawling around inside my head.
And yeah I would've surfed that wave if it was on. Ironically it feels like the safest wave up there, most of the waves up there break in deepish water, this one you can pretty much stand where it peaks, there's a fairly narrow channel about 10-12 ft deep between the bank and the reef out the back and I can only imagine the shark was cruising through there when it came across Ben.
I would guess that I've averaged 150-200 hrs in the water here the last couple of years and I've seen two noahs there, one about 3ft the other 5 or 6. Conversely I've seen a LOT of big bronzies at other breaks in the area and one Kombi with fins at the glamour break south of here.
It's just pure bad luck that this happened.