My mate missed his fiances grandfathers funeral for some barrels at Rotto the other week

If you can get away with that, marry her !

My partner and I recently had a baby. Few months ago, baby was a week overdue... I surfed for about 5 hours. I figured it was like rolling the dice. Luckily baby didn't come, but gee, imagine the carnage if it had have come! (I paddled in each few hours and checked my phone for messages, but still...)

My girlfriend of 7 years. Well, it wasnt a voluntary sacrifice but surfing was a primary cause hahah.

was working on a farm in the early 90's in Watheroo (150kms inland from Jurien) made a phone call to a mate who informed me that the surf had been epic in Perth that arvo and a few of the boys were heading to the womb the next morning. This got to me big time and after two hours of thinking asked the boss for a couple of days off, no go.... went to my quarters packed all my stuff into the Hilux, drove past the boss' house and left a note. It read: F**k you I'm gone. That cost me two weeks pay owing to me but it was worth it as I drove through to double overhead perfection shared with only us out for two days straight. Unemployed for about a month before the cray season started, lived off noodles and the kindness of others, surfed every day Great thread Thommo

So far none have mentioned the S word

I was working at a bit of a faulty towers resort in my town and they were repainting just before Christmas , I was working there doing mantinance. The owner rang me up in the morning to confirm whether I was to work, which I thought was a bit strange, but just said yeah of course as he sounded desperate and ask a few times. So headed to work, got to the end of the street to the Ocean rd. Right turn work, left turn favorite reef break with a 10 ft swell? Car veered uncontrollably left. Got to work 3hrs. later owner with paintbrush in hand looks a me asks if I have been surfing, then just shakes his head in amazement/disbelief and we get on with the job. 1 1/2 hrs. later tell him I have to eat, local point is going off , get back 3hrs. later. Owner standing there with paintbrush in hand looks at me and asks, you been out the point? Yep, to which all he said back was "I wish I had your life". I worked till midnight that day

Missed a fair few school days to go surfing. We could see the ocean and outer reefs from school, couldnt hang around when we new the surf was good. Had some funny encounters with teachers, school cleaners and parents when wagging for the surf. Last few years what sticks in my head is all the good surf I have missed through work and family commitments.

Locky24 said...

Years ago before the internet and when mobiles were only owned by yups, I was driving to work and got to within 600 meters from the gate when the surf report came on the radio. ( it was pumpin )
I drove straight past the front gate and phoned in sick from the phone box around the corner.

I did a surf report for a local station around the same time (pre internet)...for an april fool prank I gave a surf report that said the surf was absolutely flawless that morning....I named every beach and gave it an exotic counterpart...like park beach has a left thats looking like Grajagan and so on....I had nearly every surfer in town gunning for me (they all did the Locky)...I had no idea they would all be so gullible....I had to stay low for a few days.

p.s. the surf was crap that morn.

No wories mate , be up for a surf and a catch up ,speak soon !

Work, sex, a baptism,Aunty's 50th, breakfast with all the gliter a wife can do on a Sunday Morning, a few AFL Grand Finals. Um More work.

KEARNSY said...

LOL cant think what Ive given up. Ive given up surfing...... almost ....

My wife had our twin girls 6 months ago and I have gone from owning my local breaks to surfing 4 times in 6 months. (two of those times Ive bumped into Doggie lol)

Has been a tough 6 months but things are getting easier and Im realy looking forward to this winter, more than ever before

Mate! We will have to hit up some of those special spots during winter, faaarking cant wait!!!

Prawnhead said...

dinner party with elle mcpherson !! (in bali)

best yet

Prawnhead said...

dinner party with elle mcpherson !! (in bali)

WHAT THE !!

doggie said...

Prawnhead said...

dinner party with elle mcpherson !! (in bali)

best yet

Sounds a lot better than it was,but i still like repeating it ad infinitum to a few of my mates .......i remember the time....etc etc
Was in bali (kuta for a few days, i had been staying in my usual $2 palace the ayodia inn in jalan three brothers ) 94? 96? and met a girl in one of those nice euro bars who was a shoe designer,used balinese wood carvers to craft the base of the shoes and then exported them back to brazil/europe/Oz... and lived down the far end of legian in private upmarket set of villas, all the trimmings etc spent a few days drinking, lolling around ..
My friend was very keen for me to come a dinner/birthday party the guy next door along in the villas was having ... the guy had designed some outfit for Mcpherson who was apparently a regular visitor to bali in the 90's and she was attending .. The swell prediction for G-Land was fantastic and the available trip to G Land was the same night as the party..not really much of a dilema although i have to admit to reflecting upon it in the front(death) seat of the bemo on the road to gilimanuk

G-land was absolutely firing, good waves every day but 3 days of some of the best waves i have seen and one of my top 5 surfs

Kind of extracted me from what was starting to become a bit of party scene in kuta.
Oh and of course the kudos from forgoing dinner with elle !!