
Hi Kearnsey and Doggie and all Seabreezers.
First off , Doggie - hope I didn't sound like a grumpy old .... re my name etc.
What the hell, I'll have my own website this year so you'll all get to know who I
am anyway.
Yeah Kearnsy..thanks I really enjoy writing. I write songs and I used yo be a writer in the Ad game.
I sure could tell you a few. Here's one. True :
A good surfer mate of mine got a job in a hardware store in the early 70's.
A customer came in and asked if he could have a bottle of Turps.
My mate said " Would you like that to drink here or take away sir "
My best surf ever : There were 3 :
1 :Triggs Point 1972 ish.
On shore 6 ft late summer arvo and NOBODY out there.
Took off over the bubble, went back door into the greenroom over the bank
gunned it , got slammed by the lip on the way out...THEN
another section just about the same loomed up and spray went everywhere.
All I remember is I made it.
2 : 2006 Summer mid week arvo light sea breeze:
I took my self off shore in my small boat. My Mother had passed away that week.
It was the first time I took myself out to the local outer reefs.
I surfed alone until sunset.
3. North Point Summer 2006. 4 days straight of unforgettable waves.
cheers guys ......out there.
Had to come home ... got pummbled on the reef at Margs