Ctngoodvibes said..thedrip said..Hydromann said..thedrip said..Hydromann said..IFocus said..Hydromann said..
But holy crap I'm missing that volume for the early pickup.
Drip talks about getting in early all the time and I get that it sets you to perfect position for whats to come
Sorry dude lost me??
Old grey matter on my end or shrooms on your end?
Joking BTW.
Drip=Me.
Big fan of getting in early. Obviously bang on a lot about various design features that encourage that (volume ain't the only thing) and now my reputation precedes me.
Haha, good stuff Drip. Get in early and fast before the matchsticks have a chance.
So other than volume what design features do you consider to help with the paddle in?
I've banged on about twins and quads and them being easier to take a wave at a skewed angle or to spin around quickly to take advantage of a pop up wave etc.
Hull shape and flotation distribution comes to mind as well as planing speed / surface area, drag etc.
Not so much about being more competitive, but making it easier. For me, getting in early is about avoiding having to take late drops. The suckier the take off, the more I suck. It has nothing to do with age and everything to do with talent and ability. I probably surf better at 48 than I did at 28, but I just don't last as long.
Anyways, rocker affects paddle power a lot too. I like an even rocker that spreads it out over the whole board, rather than a three stage rocker with lots of nose kick. Pushing water slows me down.
A wide nose helps big time too. Wide point forward of center. None of its secret squirrel business.
Getting in a ****teenth of a second earlier sets a good bottom turn up and from there anything is possible.
What volume do you normally ride drip ? (Or what litres as a % of body mass). Most of the calculators online seem to be around 40% for average surfers
to be honest I prefer the old days when we used to just order based on size not volume .
Volume and length is obviously good to get in early, but also think too much volume packed in too short a board can make it behave like a cork and that actually can be detrimental if anything
Completely agree. Except my small board is a volume pig.
People get way too obsessed with volume.
I have a 6'2" with 47l which is awesome fun. I have a 6'8" with 43l, I have a 7'2" with 43l. They have me covered in most conditions until it gets really solid. Those volumes sound like a lot, but I am 6'2" and 92kgs so thats 46-51% of most mass.
The 6'2" is a Yahoo Kelvinator so they are a bit of a weird board anyway. Most people who try a Kelvinator love them and I reckon they are an ideal board for Perth beachies.
I surfed a couple of 33l boards recently and they were horrible to paddle around. One of them I got lots of waves on, the other I missed lots of waves. The less literage did nothing for improving my performance and detracted from my fun.
But if literage was the be all and end all, then my 42-47l slot would let me surf an esky.
I see a lot of people surfing HP boards who are too focussed. "Oh I only surf 28-29." What? A thirty or 31 litre board is going to destroy your surfing? Unless you are a ball tearing ripper, it's probably barely going to be noticeable and will only help get more waves.
I still order in size. My allrounder in 1996 was 6'6". Now its 6'8", just wider and thicker. Increased incrementally over the years from 6'6"x 2 1/4 x 18 1/2 to 6'8" x 20 1/2 x 2 3/4. So my lengths are old school and outlines similar. I am 22 kgs heavier though. And I promise I surf way better now than I did in '96. Still crap, but a better version of crap and I can ride a barrel properly now.
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