The best surf of my life!!!

> 10 years ago
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KEARNSY
KEARNSY
WA
1322 posts
WA, 1322 posts
2 Jun 2007 7:04pm
Ok here is ur chance to let the whole world know about that day when you had that wave or that session that sticks out in your mind more than the other ones! You know- that surf that had you be world champion for a day.That day you think about when you check the surf and its flat and you say- 'gee, I wish it was like that day when I got barreled on that wave for five minutes' haha - A chance to share, brag , spoil us with ur own ultimate experiences of exactly what surfing is about for you.
You may have only been 10 years old or it may have only been this morning , but lets hear it, out with it , its your last chance to make a claim to fame
KEARNSY
KEARNSY
WA
1322 posts
WA, 1322 posts
2 Jun 2007 7:17pm
Ok, guess Ill go first-
I was 23 and on Nusa Lombongan and slept in till lunch time.
I awoke to meet all the boys on thier way back in after smashing 5ft "Ship Wrecks" apart all morning. I had the line up to my self apart from some guy who couldnt even float , let alone paddle!

As the tide drained out I got barreled of me face all arvo till sunset and was finally living the moment I'd been dreaming of for years!
-Long deep hollow kegs in front of all the boys who were too sore to move , half pissed by now and hootin every second wave !
poor relative
poor relative
WA
9106 posts
WA, 9106 posts
3 Jun 2007 6:36pm
I flew from Perth to Bali, then Bali to a remote Island, then took an overnight ferry then took a bus.
arrived at my destination late afternoon too late to go out.

Next morning i walked about 1-2kms across a reef and paddled out in double-triple overhead waves, breaking left, pure perfection in every sense of the word, surfed for two hours with three others and eventually got drilled and snapped my 6'10" clean in two.

Swam in cut an bloody grinning like a mad nut, met a guy walking out over the reef, who remarked on broken board and very diluted bloody state, he stood on the shore line and watched.

Beaut day.......had the best surf of my life, snapped my fav board 1 day into a 2 month trip in a heroic fashion.....
grumplestiltskin
grumplestiltskin
WA
2331 posts
WA, 2331 posts
3 Jun 2007 7:21pm
Nothing quite as epic,
but

had a month in Bali (bout 27 years ago - cripes time flies)
was the wrong part of the season, so spent nearly the whole month surfing at Nusa Dua before all the hotels got built. Was only two huts there that sold warm coke and a few longboats that would take you out around the reef and pick you up for 50c a day - luxury.

Anyway, couldn't get over how easy the waves were to catch, ride and slash up... such beautiful slopey waves, nothing like the vertical faces we get here in WA.
Best "surfing" month of my life
toesknows
toesknows
NSW
29 posts
NSW, 29 posts
11 Jun 2007 5:46pm
For me the most memorable session I can remember was one Sunday in the year 1968.
This was the year that changed surfing forever. It was the year that young surfers like Wayne Lynch and David "baddy" Treloar set the surfing world on it's head with thier innovative styles.
A black Ford Customline V8 covered in Nullabor dust roared into the car park of my regular surf spot. Out hopped four " aliens " from NSW.
They were dressed in baggy jeans, flannel shirts, socks and sandals.
I sat in awe as I watched these guys surf like I had never seen before. A crowd built on top of the hill which looked down on the surf and watched the dawn on a new era in surfing in Australia and the world.
That was the most memorable session for me.
smurf
smurf
WA
1 posts
WA, 1 posts
14 Jun 2007 8:21pm
hows it goin big boys, my best surf of my life was up north at kalbarri jakes point best left around here if was perfect light offshore suns out and chicks laying on the beach,,,,, perfect 3-4 foots lefts cumin through long lefts and everything, hahaha
lancekenny
lancekenny
SA
402 posts
SA, 402 posts
10 Aug 2007 6:40pm
Have to say Boranup is consistently the best wave I have surfed but in 2002 I surfed Sunset Cliffs in San Diego 3 days straight - 2 long surfs a day, on the 4th say I had to leave for Houston which was lucky cause my knees hurt so much.

The surf was glassy all day (kelp bed helped) and crew was very cool - huge surf area with countless waves, size was consistent double head but not heavy like here in WA - very light and full on fun... a week later I was surfing oily dirty infested water in Galveston... no one should ever surf Galveston!!!
ebb gal
ebb gal
WA
25 posts
WA, 25 posts
16 Aug 2007 1:24pm
how crazy is the line up at gnaraloo...its paked at 3 mile!!! tombstones was packed out so we went for a treck 2 slaters which had the perfect barrell and i have 2 say better than tombstones on that day!!
Greenroom
Greenroom
WA
7608 posts
WA, 7608 posts
17 Aug 2007 9:40pm
The Bluff sh1ts all over Tombies
spot1
spot1
WA
1588 posts
WA, 1588 posts
18 Aug 2007 4:20pm
i like centers
fly guy
fly guy
NSW
151 posts
NSW, 151 posts
19 Aug 2007 2:59pm
Just got back from the Bluff, got 2 swells, got barrelled, it was nice
KEARNSY
KEARNSY
WA
1322 posts
WA, 1322 posts
21 Aug 2007 8:04pm
Here's another one- about 4 years ago I swear I surfed the Trigg dog beach just north of the piont around 6ft and absolutly smoking. I hav'nt seen it break like that or at all since. Stand by 4 pics aye- no lie
KEARNSY
KEARNSY
WA
1322 posts
Greenroom
Greenroom
WA
7608 posts
WA, 7608 posts
22 Aug 2007 8:02pm
quote:
Originally posted by fly guy

Just got back from the Bluff, got 2 swells, got barrelled, it was nice


How insane was the track in Fly?
How did the caravan go?
There were puddles everywhere. Not good for the commodore wagon
Greenroom
Greenroom
WA
7608 posts
WA, 7608 posts
22 Aug 2007 8:04pm
quote:
Originally posted by KEARNSY

Here's another one- about 4 years ago I swear I surfed the Trigg dog beach just north of the piont around 6ft and absolutly smoking. I hav'nt seen it break like that or at all since. Stand by 4 pics aye- no lie


Looks like Bennions??? Is that what its called???
Breaks like that often. Lots of boogers ride it
JiP
JiP
NSW
130 posts
JiP JiP
NSW, 130 posts
25 Aug 2007 3:55am
south straddie about 10 yrs ago got barrelled from take off to the beach ..about 4 ft went blind in the barrel twice each time it opened up to a closer view of the beach where i could see this guy looking at me whilst putting on his leg rope. when i exited i could have finish attaching it for him ! man that was a good day !
fly guy
fly guy
NSW
151 posts
NSW, 151 posts
28 Aug 2007 6:59pm
Got a little movie I made of my Red Bluff trip, its 8 min long and a little over 600 meg, its to big for youtube, are there any other sites that will take it?

the track in had a bit of water on it very hard to get there wouldnt recomend it to anyone
Poida
Poida
WA
1922 posts
WA, 1922 posts
28 Aug 2007 9:33pm
quote:
Originally posted by KEARNSY

www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=5634



some one told me it was called BOOGER BOX
learn to be at one with the reef is the motto to surf it
Ian Burgess
Ian Burgess
WA
23 posts
WA, 23 posts
29 Aug 2007 11:41am
A little different to most other responces but still a very memorable occasion.
About two weeks ago I surfed a little reef break in the Perth metro area. 2 foot max with realy good banks, only one other person out. It was the first time my 7 year old daughter and 3 year old son had ever seen me surf. The waves were nice and easy. The kids were standing onshore and everytime I took off on a wave they would cheer. It is a wonderful feeling knowing that on this day I past my love of surfing down to my children. I have surfed for 22 years and had a lot of memerable experiences in big surf. Nothing will top this feeling.
fly guy
fly guy
NSW
151 posts
Captain Bob
Captain Bob
WA
160 posts
WA, 160 posts
31 Aug 2007 8:40pm
quote:
Originally posted by fly guy


www.seabreeze.com.au/gallery/gallery.asp?imageid=5757



Just hope that bolke didn't drop in on ya.
fly guy
fly guy
NSW
151 posts
NSW, 151 posts
31 Aug 2007 10:48pm
Looks like I got the poo stance happening though
I think I was moving up the board, you can just see the tail of the board, Im about 2/3 the way up
KEARNSY
KEARNSY
WA
1322 posts
WA, 1322 posts
1 Sep 2007 10:16am
quote:
Originally posted by fly guy

Looks like I got the poo stance happening though
I think I was moving up the board, you can just see the tail of the board, Im about 2/3 the way up



Go the Poocrab hahahaha!
Greenroom
Greenroom
WA
7608 posts
WA, 7608 posts
3 Sep 2007 11:14am
Who cares what you look like Fly, the point is that it was the wave of your life, no one elses. I wish I could live there forever
Surfer32
Surfer32
WA
7 posts
WA, 7 posts
3 Sep 2007 2:46pm
Ten foot pipe winter of 98. For those who may not have surfed Hawaii, the hardest wave to ride at pipe is the one that feathers on second reef but dose not quite break, when these ones hit first reef they go wild, so much water in them. Never been so barreled & scared & spat-out & and happy & frightened all at once. Put 13 staggered half creases in my board on the very next wave, flattened all the rocker out of my 7'6" Pipe is a cruel mistress but I'll take that wave to my grave.

cRAZY Canuk
cRAZY Canuk
NSW
2528 posts
NSW, 2528 posts
3 Sep 2007 6:25pm
Best wave of my life was during my surf trip (to Costa Rica) and subsequently when I started surfing. It was in dominical and it was the first wave that I got up and went across the face of for more than 5 secs. It's still one of the longest waves of my life and it’s the one that totally hooked me.

It wasn't a barrel or any thing fancy. Nor was it even sunny that day and the water was a little bit murky, but that wave still sticks in my mind.
JiP
JiP
NSW
130 posts
JiP JiP
NSW, 130 posts
14 Sep 2007 1:59am

Thats a fantastic Story mate good on you


quote:
Originally posted by Ian Burgess

A little different to most other responces but still a very memorable occasion.
About two weeks ago I surfed a little reef break in the Perth metro area. 2 foot max with realy good banks, only one other person out. It was the first time my 7 year old daughter and 3 year old son had ever seen me surf. The waves were nice and easy. The kids were standing onshore and everytime I took off on a wave they would cheer. It is a wonderful feeling knowing that on this day I past my love of surfing down to my children. I have surfed for 22 years and had a lot of memerable experiences in big surf. Nothing will top this feeling.

ebb gal
ebb gal
WA
25 posts
WA, 25 posts
26 Sep 2007 11:02am
my 2nd best surf after slaters and tombies would be at d-bah at the goldy...sick lefts that went for ages..wasn't crowded.
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