Hey guys forgive me if I sound like an idiot but every week when I am learning to surf/ watching others surf, I see so many people not catch 'surfable' waves? Mainly off Scarborough beach, I'll see a wave come in and a bloke could give it a go but instead just sits there and gives it a miss.

Maybe because I am new to surfing there's something I don't know? Are they waiting for something better? Because for the whole time I'm at the beach there are people who even just sit on their board in the water and do nothing.

Cheers

62Mac is right - particularly with the lack of (sand) banks at Trigg and Scarborough lately.

Most likely the guys are waiting for a wave with more shape - ie something with a 'shoulder' that will allow them to get a longer ride. Waves with little to no shape that break across the whole section of the wave at the same time are called a 'close-out' or 'straight' wave (dumper to non surfers).

Close-outs usually pick-up and break quite quickly, not giving much time to get to your feet and trim across the face of the wave. The ones you want are the ones that 'peel' from the peak of the wave and break across the wave in one direction.

BTW - tides have a big influence on the shape of the waves when surfing beach breaks - generally the lower the tide, the more likely the waves will close-out... however, if the tides are too high, the waves can get 'fat' and not break. Mid tide is generally best.

rune said...

newguy said...

Hey guys forgive me if I sound like an idiot but every week when I am learning to surf/ watching others surf, I see so many people not catch 'surfable' waves? Mainly off Scarborough beach, I'll see a wave come in and a bloke could give it a go but instead just sits there and gives it a miss.

Maybe because I am new to surfing there's something I don't know? Are they waiting for something better? Because for the whole time I'm at the beach there are people who even just sit on their board in the water and do nothing.

Cheers

You sometimes have to laugh though.
I remember a couple of years ago at Surf Beach, it was huge.
All the heroes paddled out, I watched, way too big. In the 45 minutes I was there not one wave was caught. Every now and then someone would turn around, paddle for one, look down and think, YIKES not this one. Pathetic, if you are going out there go for it.
I can just imagine these guys talking to their mates a few days after, "That huge day, I went out there", don't mention the fact that you didn't even go for one wave.

Geez.. it's pretty rough to criticise when you're the one on the beach don't you think?

Ever heard of the 'odd one'? If i rock up and its solid closing out with nothing better to do for the day I'll still paddle out... sometimes that odd one on a big day is worth the wait...

Nothing to do with being a hero...I don't find much point pulling into closeouts only to risk my gear...

pooman said...


Geez.. it's pretty rough to criticise when you're the one on the beach don't you think?

I call it smart or not desperate or surfed a million waves or old and fussy

Hello champ,you tend to get a little fussy once old age kicks in,so billboard and asea till me

yeah everyday loads of waves go unridden ,,, cause Im at bloody work

Yep what both Kearnsy and thommo said

HaHaHa....whatever, this thread is crap! Kearnsy and Doddie are gay!!

Who is Doddie?

newguy said...

haha mate, u boys have it better than me. I'm stuck waiting for my wetsuit (good deal) to be sent instore and then to save up for a board. Guess I'll have to just stick to sat and sun morn lessons... argh!

just saw some nice boards for sale on here, you mite be able to organize something to suit...... for a reasonable price to