thommo 000 said...

^^WHAT!!!......pumpin today boys 6-8'

Do you live at The Bluff thommo?

Zuke said...

thommo 000 said...

^^WHAT!!!......pumpin today boys 6-8'

Do you live at The Bluff thommo?

No i used to stay there for about 5 months of the year for a lot of years a long time ago, carnt be bothered now.

Legion said...
6 weeks 'til I drive past thommo. Staying just past your turnoff (the further away one) for an overnighter, just booked today. I'll wave.

Call in!!..we'll go to the spot X place, was ok today, fell off to bottom on one and tore half the stitches outa me shoulder//came up seeing white spots everywhere, the water had pushed up under me eyelids, they were huge, lol, had to pull me eyelashes out and let the water out, funny as...that's a first..for me anyway lol, best time today, wooot

Today

Man, I'd love to call in. Bit of tight timeframe though, what with an arvo drive just past you then another same length drive the next day.

One day I'll have to schedule a boys' weekend/week away without the family so I can be more flexible with my time. Otherwise trips away coincide with school holidays and I can't imagine it being worth visiting with the crowds etc. Maybe bring doggie .

Legion said...

Man, I'd love to call in. Bit of tight timeframe though, what with an arvo drive just past you then another same length drive the next day.

One day I'll have to schedule a boys' weekend/week away without the family so I can be more flexible with my time. Otherwise trips away coincide with school holidays and I can't imagine it being worth visiting with the crowds etc. Maybe bring doggie .

Im in

Really clean again this morning, but noticeably smaller and straighter at Trigg. Maybe a tide thing but most of the sets at 2nd's were just shutting down.

Yesterday was the day!

I was just down from "Zuke's" for the early today. Perfect conditions, some sets with potential and ...





... I was the world's biggest kook. I've made a habit out of avoiding my backhand. The 0.01% of waves I do get on my backhand, occasionally I pull a nice hack or whatever and feel good about myself and think I can still do it. But today, wow. I paddled out to a forehand bank at first light, but then a rent-a-crowd followed me out. There was a nice backhand bank just up the beach, empty, so I paddled up to it. A few others tried to join me but it was a very strong sweep and you basically couldn't sit, had to paddle constantly to maintain position. But there were the odd 3' sets lining up nicely.

Wave 1: late takeoff on the shoulder, go for big bottom turn, bog inside rail, spear through lip.

Wave 2: late takeoff, made it but positioned feet too close to inside rail and could only ride out to the shoulder trying not to dig the rail, failing as I reach the shoulder and dive over the nose of the board like a kook.

Wave 3: late takeoff, fast wall ahead, try to bottom turn too early, all fins pop out, board slides and I can't hold it and down I go.

Wave 4+: more assorted kook fest waves. Not a single good wave.

You're welcome for the laugh if you were out there. It must've looked funny, a guy who kept paddling deep like he knew what he was doing but just kept majorly blowing it. I felt like a complete beginner.

When I have days like this it makes me think I need to spend a year or so forcing myself to only surf backhand. But given the multitude of good forehand waves in this state I always find them far more tempting. Still, I'd like to develop a good pig dog, and a good backhand bottom turn. That's light years from this morning's performance though.

We all have days like that Legion, at least that's your one out the way for a while

Popped into trigg this morning on my way to the fisheries library. Worth it. Super clean but the tide was making it a bit tricky. Lent my wetsuit to someone so boardies in the water at 7am. FREEZING!

Maybe I wasn't the biggest kook after all ...

Zuke said...

We all have days like that Legion, at least that's your one out the way for a while

+1

I find it is more likely to happen to me when I haven't been for a while and I'm keyed up to have a good session then end up trying too hard... P!sses me right off...

subasurf said...

doggie said...

Legion said...

Maybe I wasn't the biggest kook after all ...

How is he lending out his wettie in winter pffffffffft I had to red thumb him for that

In my defense, I lent it to that blonde chika to get her to come surfing. Was too big for her but still worked. Not a kook move, it's me being a gentleman hahaha. Anything to get a girl in the water.

I call B.S on that one. you just wanted her to see you with your shirt off.

subasurf said...

If you say so. My body isn't anything special

modesty doesn't become you.

i'll be the one to ask then, Suba did the lending of the wetty pay off?? as a happily married man of 15 years I'm living with the regret of having never pulled that move, that was pure genius..... so??

subasurf said...

hahaha well it's happening again tomorrow so yeah...we'll leave it at that
It isn't a 'get laid quick' scheme...I'm all about long term investing.

Long term investment, very smart on your part suba

2.6M swell and offshore, go the early!