Ahhh 5 hrs of headhigh beachbreak fun, all for the price of a tank of juice.

Went for a walk along the coast with the Mrs yesterday morning. Stopped at Trigg Point and sat on the beach for a while... must have been 100+ surfers out in 3ft with 4ft sets that occassionally had some shape, but all too often just closed out after about 15-20m...

Saw a lot of near misses and was somewhat surprised I didn't see someone come out bleeding... couple of guys going out without leggies and even a Dad pushing his 6yo on to re-forms. Surf school and clubbies dominated 1st car park.

Was absolutely mad.

Down towards 2nd and 3rds it was just about unsurfable due to it pitching/dumping so fast - still a fair heap of crew trying.

Have seen a few surfing the 'kiddie' reef just north of Trigg island - and even the small right just north of the Trigg dog beach... I guess it's just people trying to spread out and find a wave without 50 other people chasing it...

Whent to work and was disappointed there instead

I often wonder why Perth wasn't built 350km further south

Damn you early settlers!

synsies1000 said...

pros now converging onto everything....its time for another hybernation. awesome looking week ahead, try early...or late, its about to get metrorized!

Next thursday is lookin like a nice change is a commin mite get some banks locally if we are lucky.....

Sat 02/04/11

Trigg Point 3-4ft with 15-19kn NE winds - 70-80 out. When it hits the reef right, the rights are good and long with a hollow 'head duck' section before closing out on the inside. Shifting peak, so 1 in 6 OK, otherwise BIG close-out...

Saw a girl on the beach with blood all over her face , and a little further down the beach a snapped board...

1st - 3rd carparks 95% dumpers - only the small waist high ones had a shoulder... nothing at Contacio's / Underpass.

Mettams and Toms surprisingly small [and uncrowded] given the swell.

Tiny wave at Seconds and Grabbers...

point was looking good this avo

lots of foreign bodies in and out of the water. locals still swiping a few from under there feet with some good tubes going down Sat. looks like some solid hitting thurs?

GPA said...

Sat 02/04/11

Trigg Point 3-4ft with 15-19kn NE winds - 70-80 out. When it hits the reef right, the rights are good and long with a hollow 'head duck' section before closing out on the inside. Shifting peak, so 1 in 6 OK, otherwise BIG close-out...

Saw a girl on the beach with blood all over her face , and a little further down the beach a snapped board...

1st - 3rd carparks 95% dumpers - only the small waist high ones had a shoulder... nothing at Contacio's / Underpass.

Mettams and Toms surprisingly small [and uncrowded] given the swell.

Tiny wave at Seconds and Grabbers...

Surfed at mettams north for about two hours on Saturday morning, wasnt bad untill people saw there was a wave there so it got crowded quick

Just snuck in a cheeky 30 minute sesh at Trigg.
Pretty good banks rolling through, not really any barrles but still nice steep waves. A bit crowded but I was getting a wave a minute cause they were very constant.

Pretty stoked

Scored glassy waves from midday Sunday arvo til about 3. Not too far from the big smoke, not too crowded as well....bliss. Got some from the takeff peak to the beach. One of the cleaner arvo surfs I hve had in a while.

Hit up Trigg this arvo after work.
Was cranking. Good size, frequent but the wind was ****ing with it a lot and quite a lot of bros out.

Still, got a few real decent rides, managed to land on a jellyfish on a wipeout...so now I'm sore as ****

Tomorrow or Friday that place will be going nuts.

haha, I wont even get a paddle in on friday I don't think...maybe a quick one down at Cott cause it's close. Gotta drive up to Lancelin Friday arvo. Saturday is looking sweet with the wind :D

Legion said...

Friday will be awesome. Every year I and every other numbskull paddle out on the first swell of the year at the metro beaches with the straight banks. And we sit and we sit, waiting for something that doesn't close out. And it's overhead and dumping. Boards are snapping and it generally is a waste of time. Amusing.

Ffs go north!! I'm outta here on fri nite!

It wont bother me as i will be in BALI yeeeharrr