WA
104 posts
Hi guys, I have been surfing for about a year now, and just want some tips or advise on late takeoffs/ steep sucky waves. When it gets big I seem to always fall forward and most times never make it, any advise?
WA
421 posts
I am hardly the best surfer around, so perhaps you should wait til some of the better guys comment, but I'll outline one thing that has helped me a lot in the past few years of surfing relating to what you said.
When I was learning the finer art of shortboards, I always used to push my back foot harder on late take offs. This was fine for making the drop, but I often got munched soon thereafter.
Instead, do the opposite. Sometimes in surfing what seems wrong is actually right. Two things that seem wrong but that feel right to me and that could help you are:
1) Put your weight further forward when you paddle. I know it seems like you will 'fall forward' but it gets you onto the wave earlier, allowing you to set your rail into the turn quicker. Or, it could allow you to take off with a greater angle across the face instead of straight down.
2) Plant the front foot and drive off the front foot. I know this seems wrong, but if you have the angle sorted, don't stall the board by using too much back foot. Instead, drive the front foot down as you take off into the angle. The front rocker of the short board can turn on its front section (although, perhaps the more modern 5'9 style pods, cobblers etc won't do this so well).
Again mate, maybe wait for the better guys to respond too and take what I said with a grain of salt, but that works for me.
WA
2529 posts
PP is essentially correct. Angle is key. Also, paddle with more power to get more speed into the wave... and spring up quickly.
But possibly the number one thing is GO FOR IT... 1/4 second hesitation will either cost you the section or see you going over the falls.
You can practice all these techniques in chest high close-outs. You may not get much of a ride, but if you can take the drop and pull your line before the wave shuts down on you, you are pretty much there.
Over the next 12 months, and certainly the next winter you should see some very noticeable improvement if you keep at it.
NSW
14256 posts
As paddle pig suggests you need to keep your weight centered and over your front foot - the rest of your board will follow. It does seem a strange idea at first - but as you have said - although you make the drop with yr weight on yr back foot you will end up at the bottom of the wave with no momentum to extend your legs and make your turn - instead getting smothered. It's very similar to snowboarding - get your body weight over your front foot and the rest will follow. Enjoy! Nothing like a good late drop to get yr stomach moving.
WA
2355 posts
Something i think Paddlepig was alluding to, but perhaps didn't get across is to commit to a rail as well.
As you push down with your front foot (after paddling hard and having a little more weight at the front of your board), roll the board onto a rail as that is when the rocker gets engaged and it will bring the board around. Trying to take off straight simply means you are taking off flat - for all intents and purposes, sliding out of control.
Some board design things that might be contributing:
1) not enough nose rocker - these days this shouldn't really be a problem unless you are on a full on fish shape;
2) not enough rail volume in the nose. If you are a bigger guy a littl more rail volume will make the board more forgiving and less likely to bog or catch rail;
3) personal observation here, but I find rounded pins the most forgiving for late drops. i have a love affair with swallows, but they certainly don't seem to drop as well as rounded pins. Square tails are rubbish.
And the most important thing? Without sounding flippant, get better. Slater could late drop anything and would rip on a board I consider a dog. So find those winter close outs and practice. For quite a few years every second or third surf I would pick something and work on it. "Alright today I will only take set waves/get my wave count up on anything surfable/work on planting that back foot/delay initiating my bottom turn so I can go more vertical/look for the barrel and not jump off as soon as i get deep." Eventually all these things become naturalised.
So front foot push, paddle hard, commit, commit, commit, put it onto rail, and practice. Maybe look at your board.
WA
2355 posts
And it is often easier to take off super deep behind the peak rather than trying to take off on the sucky part of the wave. That is how those madmen charge The Box, Northpoint, The Womb, Pipeline, Teahupo. Get in BEFORE/BEHIND the suck if possible.
QLD
1203 posts
One thing I find works well taking off late on my backhand is paddling at an angle to the wave to start with so that when you stand up your rail is already set. If it's super sucky you can also grab the rail.
WA
104 posts
Thanks for the advise guys I will give it a go.
WA
139 posts
Time, thats all that it will take. You will make some and get drilled on others. You learn what one to pull out on so you don't waste time and ones you will give a go. Knowing the take off spot is the key. 9 out of 10 times the take off spot is in the same area, give or take 5mtr. As you take off, point the nose to the direction you want to go, as if you are riding the wave. How often do you want to go straight to the beach? If it is a late take off into the pit and cover up, stay low to gather speed and ballance. If it is a late take off free fall, get ready for the bottom turn and getting around that first foam ball to a clean face.
