Is there a special skill surfing small waves?

> 10 years ago
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newguy
newguy
654 posts
654 posts
8 Jul 2011 2:29pm
I know all you pro's will say that today was flat as but for a beginner it was pretty good to me (odd chest/waist high mixed with the smaller ones, made for a good morning to get back into surfing).

But my question is how do you become good enough to consistently catch these smaller waves (knee - waist high)? As I sat on my shortie, I watched 2 old guys on fishes I think catching almost every wave they went for and their paddling was just a couple strokes here and there.

I know that practice and the skill factor plays a big role but was I doing something wrong? I mean when the odd waist - chest high waves came in, I caught them easily but I was struggling with the smaller knee high stuff as they were easily caught by these old guys surfing the waves to the beach.

Cheers
raynef2005
raynef2005
QLD
161 posts
QLD, 161 posts
8 Jul 2011 5:01pm
What kind of board were you riding?

A small wave fun board or fish is a must for small days. They paddle easily and catch waves in two strokes.
Legion
Legion
WA
2222 posts
WA, 2222 posts
8 Jul 2011 3:46pm
Well, the old guys were using floatation and planing surface to their advantage. There's simply no way around it. The trade-off is performance when the waves get good - you can't bury a rail the same on a fat floaty thing.

Timing and positioning help too, and that's something you just have to develop over time. Small waves suck, because there's less margin for error. You've got to be in a tiny pocket to milk the energy from the wave. Bigger waves the size of the power zone is much larger, therefore you can get away with a lot more, it's more forgiving. In waves like you encountered, there might be a 1m^2 area where it's possible to takeoff on those small waves. In bigger waves it might be 10m^2 or more.
doggie
doggie
WA
15849 posts
WA, 15849 posts
8 Jul 2011 3:49pm
Legion said...

Well, the old guys were using floatation and planing surface to their advantage. There's simply no way around it. The trade-off is performance when the waves get good - you can't bury a rail the same on a fat floaty thing.

Timing and positioning help too, and that's something you just have to develop over time. Small waves suck, because there's less margin for error. You've got to be in a tiny pocket to milk the energy from the wave. Bigger waves the size of the power zone is much larger, therefore you can get away with a lot more, it's more forgiving. In waves like you encountered, there might be a 1m^2 area where it's possible to takeoff on those small waves. In bigger waves it might be 10m^2 or more.


Was that you out there Legion
Legion
Legion
WA
2222 posts
WA, 2222 posts
8 Jul 2011 4:13pm
No, but I wouldn't mind a board for tiny waves in my quiver. I persevere on a regular HPSB. I used to have a board with not much floatation but heaps of surface area, something like 6'2" x 21" x 1 3/4". It was heaps of fun in small waves but difficult to paddle (not enough foam). But the thinness was its downfall and I snapped the wafer-thin nose in 1' waves by spearing the sand at Perth's favourite beachbreak. I'd like a dumpster diver type board, 5'10" x 20" x 2 3/4" or something for small waves.
Prawnhead
Prawnhead
NSW
1317 posts
NSW, 1317 posts
8 Jul 2011 6:13pm
you do get an advantage with more foam and one of the few benefits of age(2 old guys) is experience..... be interested to know how old you think an old guy is

simon anderson said it best in a tracks mag interview many years ago,when asked in regard to high performance surfing in any waves

"if you want to rip , just lean over!"

doesn't help me much ....but that quote enters my head just as soon as i hit the water every time!
GPA
GPA
WA
2529 posts
GPA GPA
WA, 2529 posts
9 Jul 2011 11:14am
Legion is spot on...

I'm 44yo, 110kg and have no problem with 1ft surf (knee to chest). It's definately about the board AND experience. I surf a 7"3" 'Super Fish' that's 3" thick and 22" wide that has very little rocker (nose curve), so there's tonnes of surface area on the water...

It's also about knowing how to read the wave to get into that 1-2m zone that Legion spoke of... and being able to snap to your feet quickly.
Jradedmondo
Jradedmondo
NSW
637 posts
NSW, 637 posts
9 Jul 2011 4:23pm
totally agree with the previous posts, gotta have the right equipement for the conditions, experience and knowing the locations helps a lot along with some fitness so you can out paddle the oher guys and surf for longer

Jarryd
newguy
newguy
654 posts
654 posts
9 Jul 2011 10:20pm
Ahhh now I understand. Yeah I've been riding a 6'6 x 18 7/8 x 2 7/16 (not sure if thats good for smaller waves).

And yeh I'd say the older blokes looked the equivalent of say ... Gandalf or Dumbledore off Harry Potter (not being insulting or anything but they did look like grand masters who knew their stuff ).

Hmmm as much as I'd be keen to get a smaller board, I'm gonna still persevere with what I got. Heck practice makes perfect don't it?
doggie
doggie
WA
15849 posts
WA, 15849 posts
11 Jul 2011 3:42pm
newguy said...

Ahhh now I understand. Yeah I've been riding a 6'6 x 18 7/8 x 2 7/16 (not sure if thats good for smaller waves).

And yeh I'd say the older blokes looked the equivalent of say ... Gandalf or Dumbledore off Harry Potter (not being insulting or anything but they did look like grand masters who knew their stuff ).

Hmmm as much as I'd be keen to get a smaller board, I'm gonna still persevere with what I got. Heck practice makes perfect don't it?


That board has a very low rocker so entry into the wave should be easy and it has heaps of volume as well for your size. I think you need to work on your timing. If you still have my number we should go out on a smaller day and have a go.
newguy
newguy
654 posts
654 posts
12 Jul 2011 11:19pm
Cheers Doggie! Yeah mate, definitely keen ta learn from a master instead of me floundering about. Umm don't think I got ur number no more. Replaced my fone after buying that board off ya aye.

ffdisco2
ffdisco2
18 posts
18 posts
15 Jul 2011 2:49pm
Can I come too? :)
doggie
doggie
WA
15849 posts
WA, 15849 posts
18 Jul 2011 10:07am
Jeepers at this rate I will have to start a surf school
newguy
newguy
654 posts
654 posts
20 Jul 2011 4:09pm
Dog surfschool... Has a good ring to it
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